Monday, March 30, 2009

Rubble on park roads Bandhavgarh


On 18th Feb I wrote about the rubble and other mess on the road in side the park. Last week I was able to shoot a photo how vehicles in the park avoide going on this rubble.

Including me no one wants to drive on this rubble.

This is only a photographic proof about how our parks are managed??

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Tiger Photography


What is Tiger Photography? Can someone earn his living from Tiger photography?? I worked with so many Top Photographers of the world and majority of them answered NO. Here I am talking about Still Photography. Being a photographer myself I says yes I don't earn any part of my living from Tiger Photography. You must be thinking that I am lying or I am not a good quality photographer. So let us see the good quality photographer like Steve Bloom, Jeremy Woodhouse, Kim Sullivan,Theo Alloff, Rajesh Bedi, Nick Garbutt, Tony Heald and all what they have done. I visit their website and found majority of pictures are of other animals Tiger is less than 2%. So if these pictures are not saleable than why make so much fuss about them?? We know how difficult it is to make a good quality picture. Majority of photographers thinks Tigers is a good flowery picture, one must have this kind of flower in their flowerpot. Working with photographers is tough, even very tough if you know what kind of photograph they want. There are many places in Bandhavgarh where i would like to see a Tiger in early morning or late evening light. How many times I have photographed in this kind of situation answer is almost NO. I was talking same thing to one Forest Officer he asked then Why so many tourists comes to see and photograph a Tiger. That is Tourism?? Is like addiction? If I have money and I have seen this and this then now I would like to see this. This kind of Tourist has nothing to do with Tigers. They treat it like visiting a restaurant. One goes there orders his favorite food, enjoys it

and goes back home happily without thinking about the crockery, cutlery or linen used in the restaurant. That's why Kailash Sankhla wrote in his book that we don't want such tourists who just wants to tick the tiger along with Taj.


Let me come back to photography. Tiger photography has become difficult because of so many reasons. But I want to talk about its cost, why it has gone so costly. Only reason what I see is due to the policies of forest department. I say firmly that Forest department officers have no idea about the cost, and the value of the money one pays to enter the park. In last thirty years I have never seen any retired forest officer of any rank visiting national after paying entry fee. I know some who will not plan their holiday until unless they find some connection who can arrange their free Lodging boarding and vehicle. Still enjoying perks. So if this is the attitude then how one can feel the money pinching.Recently I was in ASSAM. One of my friend called me. we keep in touch on regular basis. That day I said I m in Assam, in Kaziranga. Oh one of my batch mate is there we were together in wildlife training. Find his number I will love to talk to him. So after our game drive I asked driver if he know this person. Yes we will see him on way to the lodge, Driver said. I met this person and simply asked his phone no because my friend------ wants to talk to him. He remembered him after good twenty years, asked about his posting and promotion. In next 5 minutes I take his leave. Next morning I saw him again at entrance gate. He started talking about some retired PCCF of M.P. who is interested in Birds and staying with forest deptt consumed lots of his time unnecessary. That is the perks after retirement. And that is the reason why they never feel money pinching. Everything comes free. I know many cases like this. Do you think system will improve, never. One Field Director of one of the Madhya Pradesh's Tiger Reserve said clearly about allowing people illegally without paying entry fee that we help them in this manner and they help us in return. I asked him is this not corruption and why don't you ask them to help you officially. Never got any reply. So that is the reason why Tiger Photography is costly.


I took this picture on 19th March at about 0744. I was waiting for this Tigress to appear with her cubs since last 30-40 minutes. When she started coming out of the jungle on a perfect spot suddenly a Gypsy appeared in speed and stopped parallel to me throwing a cloud of dust in front of my camera. I lost a very good opportunity of photographing a tiger simply because of some idiot driver. Fores department failed to control them in the park. For speed they believe in putting the speed breakers rather than telling them to behave properly in the jungle. After how many days one gets a chance to see Tigress with her cubs walking towards you in such a calm manner. My client was furious.


Saturday, March 28, 2009

Departure of P13 TO Panna.

P13 is being sent to Panna and so another tigress from Kanha. People opposed this move in Kanha but nothing happened in Bandhavgarh. Probably that was the reason for park officials to go for Puja at Siddhbaba that evening. I did hear some murmuring about protest. Someone asked me to join. I knew what they wanted but they never appeared on time.

We are happy that she has gone to find a better place for herself in Panna. Here she was living in a very poor territory. Bhitri was her main base. If she climbs southern hill she lands at Sitamandap, territory of Reshma. And if she climbs western hill she meets territory of Lakshmi and Pyari, two very dominant females. Her other sister P12 living in Bamera has produced her first litter. P13 never got pregnant here. May be due to stress of living in such a small sandwiched territory. Two males use to visit her territory and third one occasionally met her on road but never been together. Tala range of Bandhavgarh has a very high density of Tigers. At present there are 7 breeding females with 18 cubs of different age group, two dominant male and one transit male so total 28 Tigers in an area of only 105 sq km. Do they have sufficiently prey base for their survival?? No one knows the right answer.

Our major worry is will these Tiger survive in Panna?? Some journalist wrote that they (Forest deptt officers) cover up each others sin. If that is the case, which looks very true as no enquiry is being conducted so far for missing Panna tigers, then there is no hope for these tigers in Panna. He, journalist, says the enquiry will cover up their sins properly.

After her departure from here Reshma, Lakshmi and Pyari should feel more relaxed. They will share her territory. Lakshmi will get the smallest share in it and Reshma will benefit the most.

Anyway she is gone. We hope she will have a better life there.

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Back in Tigerland

We reached Allahabad before schedule time but Howrah mail got late after it. We reached Katni by 6PM and Tala by 2045. Munmun, Mahi and Mummy join us from Umaria. Everyone was tired but eager get up early for Jungle.
Kay saw Durga walking on road towards them. that was really good sighting. Chris got some nice photos.
Denise arrived yesterday and they already saw B2 in their first game drive.
Next few days will be very busy and I dont think I will have enough time to write blogg.

Kaziranga from 11th March to 15th March

In all for me Kaziranga was not that exciting as I use to see it before. It is long time back and old story. Now at this time I found it more dry and smoky. Whole of Assam was burning. In-fact we never saw blue sky during our one week stay. Everyone in our group has same complaint about the park. Local tourists does not treat park as they should to this Heritage site. Guides and Drivers blame them for littering the park. Some Guides try to attract the attention of Rhino by imitating their call. People laugh on this. Guides needs to learn what the tourist wants, what is the need of photographers?? I will say that photography in those five days was not good.
on our journey back home Me Chris and Tony wanted to try Guwahati Dump again. It is nice filthy place for storks.
After dinner we board Howrah Mumbai mail for Katni.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Grassland burning in Kaziranga, Assam



Rhino lives mainly in marshy grassland. In summer months often they are seen in or near water.

Our most of the sighting of Rhino were near water.We never saw them wallowing or playing in water. Park authorities dont send Gunmen with Indian tourist but it is must for every vehicl with foreign tourist. One Guard told me that Indian tourist dont stop like foreigner near Rhino so they are safe. We saw Grasslands burning. It was nice for photo but not for other creatures. I found Kaziranga very poor for butterflies and all other ground nesting birds. Peacocks are not found in Kaziranga. Park timings are odd. Visitors are allowed only at 0730 AM. 2 hours of morning light is wasted. We found sunlight at 0730 very strong for photography. Park should be open 30 minutes before sunrise and to make the better use of tourism all the roads of the park should be open to tourism. Not a great day for photography. Our guide use to imitate Rhino noise to call them closer and this irritate us badly so I had to tell him about the feelings of group members.

Elephant Ride to see Rhino




Except Grant and Sharon every one opted to go for Elephant Ride. Rhino watching is easy. It not like Tiger in Kanha and Bandhavgarh that sometime one has to look for them for hours without producing any fruitful results. We saw about 7 Rhino and a herd of wild Buffalows in one hour time.


Not good for our kind of Photography but for tourists it is great.


We saw quite a few Rhino again but by that time light was too strong.