bandhavgarh

Vulture Estimation Panna Tiger Reserve 2011

2012-01-29T23:33:00.001+05:30

I must thank Mr Murthy, Field Director Panna Ntl Park who got a highly professional job done by most amateurs. Secondly I thank camp staff who made our stay comfortable where we were drinking mineral water, eating fresh vegetables and drinking tea made out of fresh milk.
i started my journey from my house at about 3 AM in the morning on 20th Jan. to board Sarnath Express from Umaria. When I reached Satna at about 0800 hrs vehicles were already waiting for us. All the luggage in one Dagga and most of us set in another Dagga (Tata 407 Mini truck).Road up till Panna is good and than up till Madla it's as it is anywhere else in M.P.
It was a chaos at Madla rest house. No one knew what is our duty or what we have to do until the arrival of Deputy Director. There were many participants who arrived there without registration. After these formalities and lunch we were asked to jump in available vehicles for a short introductory park round and then we will be dropped in our respected camps.
At Dhundhva we saw more than 100 vultures on one roosting site and about 70 vultures i could count in one of my photograph. Majority of them were Long Billed Vulture.
After collecting our Dinner packets we were waiting for our names to be called with allocated vehicle when some 11 participants who came from Delhi decided to withdraw their names from this program. This was very late to withdraw the names but their wish and they were firm. This disrupted the whole program and it took another 30 minutes or so to sort out the names.
We reached our camp site at about 0800 PM. After putting the bags everyone rush to the Fire. Yes it was cold. Next morning we heard the message about frost on wireless.
Staff kept the fire burning throughout the night. Our rooms were filled with smoke. It was difficult situation. I slept first half of the night and got up at about 2 AM. Straight to fire. Some other participant soon joined me near the fire. I made tea at about 0500 AM for everyone who were awake. I think it was too early for others.
We left camp sharp at 7 for our first Vulture Estimation count. One party went to check the cliffs and we went to look around Jatan Ki Matiya Pahadiya. First day we did not see any vulture nest or roosting site. One abondoned nest was found on a tree. I did not see any sign of life on this nest. No new branches were added recently and nor we saw any recent droppings. At about 10AM we saw two Red Headed Vultures flying.
Leopard pug-marks were seen almost on all the roads and footpath we used. We came back to Raipura village (abondoned) at about 1100 AM. Raipura village was relocated Nadiya beehad near Rajgarh village in 2005. These villagers left their cattle free in the forest. Probably that time carrying the cattle along with them may be costly affair, more than the cost of cattles probably. No these feral cattles are breeding in the park. They are not use to of human being so one clap can alert them. We faced a bull who was not at all happy with our presence in his area. Forest staff was also concerned about his mood so they quickly grab the stick for safety.
We were told that there are many vultures can be seen near the river but we didn't find any except few Long Billed and one Egyptian vulture was seen flying high.
Last night we heard lots of spotted deer alarm calls near the camp but we did not had a good enough torch to explore the area so I asked the guard to arrange some battery for their torch. He quickly brought some from a nearby village shop.
Our programe after lunch was to check the transit line that we could do with great difficulty because after some time we lost the sign of transit lines. Nothing was seen.
In nut shell I will say that this was a very good effort of Forest Deptt. Many people learned about Vultures and their importance in nature. Last day we heard that total 1700 vultures are recorded by all of us. Good figure. Hope to do this again next year.
At about

Tigers

2011-12-28T18:49:00.001+05:30

In last few days Tiger show has started in bandhavgarh. Its just the Christmas new year rush. Wakeeta was under the Tiger show hammer constantly for fourth day. Today her mate also joined her and that was Shashi or Bamera male. Cubs are still very secretive. They dont like to see such a huge animal (Elephant) standing next to them. Soon they will gain the confidence.
Other good sighting we had was of a Sloth Bear. Last week a man was mauled in Gurwahi by sloth bear, presumably she was the same female whose cub was killed in a road accident on Manpur Road. Today I heard someone saw Saki aka Bokha limping near Mahaman?? Dont know how reliable this news is but if any one has any photo from today then please post it on internet.

2011-12-23T21:14:00.001+05:30

Winter makes life little hard for the cattle in mostvillages around Bandhavgarh National Park where people do not bring theircattle in the shed during night hours. Weak animals some time dies due to cold.One cow near park boundary died like that. Crows find that quick and Vulturesfollowed them soon. It's not only themalone but other scavengers like dogs andjackals also got the news and they were there to get their share. Dogs keptVultures and crow away from the dead cow so they were waiting for them to leaves they could land on the kill.

In this situation where Long Billed Vultures are sitting ontrees waiting for the opportunity a Jungle Crow saw them as a big competitorfor them. He sat close to a vulture.Vulture did not object to this crow next to him. Probably he was not worried ofa much smaller bird in size. Crow had different ideas. He started peeling thebark to throw it on Vulture. He tried but he could hardly throw it towardsvulture. Vulture still ignoring his presence. Crow made some noise to offendVulture but later he decided to take more physically. He knew that vulture hasa much bigger stronger bill in comparison to his. Very cleverly he flew tocircle the vulture and attacked on his tail. He was hanging to vultures tailbut that did not hurt him at all. He tried few times to draw his attention butfailed.

Now he decided to virtually attack the vulture. He lands onhis back and started pecking on his back. This must have hurt the vulture. Heturned back to bite the crow but crow was more clever than him. He pulled backhimself out of reach of his bill but still sitting on vultures back.

This drama kept on going for next 10 minutes or so. Vulturewas pecked many times on its back by this crow. He never had a second of peace since this crowcame so at last he decided to leave. Victorious Crow followed him to the nexttree but came back to his tree, watching dogs and jackal chasing each other forfood.

Tigers of Bandhavgarh

2011-12-18T19:04:00.003+05:30

After reading Mr Ken's email and Dr Rahul's comment I feel guilty for not updating my blog regularly. I will try it now to update regularly no matter if I have to put only few lines.
Tiger sightings have gone down here in last few days. Main reason behind is Shashi aka Bamera male who is trying to dominate the complete 109 sq km of Tala range. On some days he is covering more than twenty km in one single night. Then there are two more young sub adult Tigers who are trying to hold the ground in back of Tala range. They are not shy but scared of people on foot and on bicycle which one can find in abundance in the park. NGO'S can help in running a lodge but by distributing shoes and jackets one cant ensure to save the Tiger. Its a hard path to follow. I am saying this again and again since last 5 years that Tigers will survive in isolated pockets of forests, those are called National Parks or Tiger Project areas and this population will be managed genetically. So our these two Tigers don't have any choice except to stay in this area until they face the real challenge of their life.
Grasslands are burnt in Bandhavgarh to get the new shoots for herbivores. Burning the grass in sandy soil???
There are few papers available on this winter burning by Mr H.S Panwar and Late Sh S.R Choudhary. Its a highly debatable subject but these people did made their point acceptable to all.

In last 10 days I saw these two young sub-adult tigers on two different occasions. In our opinion they are cubs from Mukunda area. There they were seen last summer.

Other major activity that took place here was Kabir pilgrimage. This year more than 14thousand people were walking through the critical core area of tiger in Bandhavgarh.
It was a great chaos. Not a single animal was seen in Chakradhara Jamunia for next 4-5 days. Tourists who paid money to enter the premium zone were shunted to enter and exit from Magadhi entrance in the afternoon and after the morning game drive they lost a visit to Chakradhara meadow because they were asked to exit from Magadhi.
Poor Tourists. I have not heard any protest so far from any lodge owner but on behalf of my guests now I will protest and may ask for refund.

More later, sure.

B2 Sundar

2011-12-06T21:55:00.001+05:30

Since last month I had no time to write anything on my blog or other diaries. On 21st Nov morning, we were asked to see a male tiger to help in its ID. We (me and Kay) went over there to see this tiger at about 08 AM. Rajkishor and co open the cage to show this tiger to us. I asked Kay to go inside the cage to see him. She came out whispering "That's boy Sundar." I tried to match him with other young male tigers photograph but none were matching. Kay left for home leaving me behind saying that is him. Some people find it difficult to believe that it's B2. After an hour or so Kay return back with another matching picture and now everyone accepts that its B2.
How he reached 100 km away from here is a story.
According to people there local villagers saw a Tiger moving in the jungle. They informed the forester in the village. Next day this information passed on to Ranger of that area and he also decided to have a look. But by this time this tiger moved away from that spot. People were looking for a Tiger like they are looking for a cattle. At this time he attacked on some villager. May be he went very close to him.
Information was sent to Shahdol and Umaria. Next day when search party from Bandhavgarh reached to the spot they found a tiger lying next to a stream. He was weak and his breathing was shallow.
There were more than 200 people looking at him making all sort of noises. this tiger even after seeing and hearing these people never made any attempt to look for a cover. He was still lying there. Search party saw him drinking water from the stream but he did not tried to move.
He was tranquilised and taken to Shahdol for further treatment. Later that night he died on his way to Tala.
He had so many wounds on his body. Some of them were so deep and big that maggots ate most of the flesh in side and there was so much gap between skin and flesh that one could put his hand like putting it in trousers pocket.
He died of his wound inflicted by some other male. Who it could be except his own son Bamera male. Once he got these wounds and getting weaker then every tiger must have pushed him from there area. In these conditions Tigers do like to move away to a secluded place but where he could find it. That's why he was found hungry tired near the stream where he was assured of water.
B2 is not the only Tiger that is being pushed by Shashi aka P10 aka Bamera male. Pyari aka Chakradhara tigress was pushed by him. Hope some people who saw them fighting in Chakradhara meadow opposite watch tower will remember how badly she was slapped. She fell on the ground and then did not get up for few minutes. Pyari sitting in grass snarling, growling on Shashi and he stood there staring at her made her to believe that he is the one who holds this territory. She left after this. Most of the time Tigers avoid physical fight. They settle their dispute by showing their power vocally and looking big in size. There are quite a few incident to prove this. Charger-Baanka. Charger-Langdu. B1,B2,B3-Charger. B2-Kalua. B2-Kalua's brother(I did not see this but other tourist saw), Babu- Indrani, B2 Chased by Shashi, Shashi watching Bokha mating with Lakshmi, Shashi-Pyari (Was this to defend her cubs), Vijaya -Lakshmi's male cub (Vijaya avoids him).
B2 lived for 14 yrs and 6 months in Bandhavgarh. He became dominant male at the age of three when he sired a litter and for the next ten years he remained dominant male until challenged by his own son Shashi.

We will miss him for many years to come.

Giant Wood Spider and Grass Demon.

2011-10-16T16:29:00.000+05:30

We enter the park from Magadhi gate. Now Magadhi gate tourists don't have to go to main gate. magadhi entry is done from wireless office near the interpretation center. Approach road to Magadhi gate is a pain. I have never seen that road that bad in last 32 yrs of my life in Bandhavgarh. If you want to enter the park in time from Bhadrashila gate than keep 30 minutes in hand to reach the gate and do the paperwork. I think there should not be any entry booking in the morning. Entry form should be deposited on previous afternoon so all this job is done in the evening itself so the verification can be done quickly and tourists enter the park in time.
In-fact this will make things easier for all.
Our vehicle was 9th to enter the park. We were not expecting much except few good photos of anything.
Giant Wood Spiders were every where.
Grasses were tall. Sal trees did not look happy in some areas especially around Sukhi dam. There must have been some moth which attacked these. Some of the Sal trees were growing new leaves.
A tigress was seen at Dadra Junction. Elephants followed her for sometime but she climbed the hill. Kuttappan Mahavat said She is Kankati's sister. Kuttappan is going to be very elusive in the jungle after Feb 2012. Kuttappan was complaining about his agency that they don't send him any sell statement any more. Last he heard from his photo agency was 4-5 yrs back.
He lost his business to all those photographers to whom he took on his elephant for Tiger photography and to the latest technology.

We saw a spider hanging under her molted skin. She was very motionless. we thought she is dead and killed by male spiders as two male were hanging around her. Later we realised that she molted her skin and injured herself in the process.
At home was even better news. After breakfast when we were walking in the garden I saw an unusual butterfly. Grass Demon.

We never saw it before here in Bandhavgarh since we started looking for butterflies in mid 90's.

Tigers

2011-10-03T22:09:00.002+05:30

This morning 3rd October a calf was killed by a tiger near petrol station on main road. By the time I reached there majority of pugmarks were wiped out. Villagers saved two pugmarks but it was difficult to asses the sex of the tiger by those pugmarks. Some people saw tiger killing calf at 0430 in the morning (Have to believe them). He must have been disturbed. He did not ate any portion of this calf and while going away from the spot he hit barbed wire.People were telling me the route he took to reach the spot etc etc.
It was the case of tala village so regular forest deppt made the case for compensation.

A female tiger was seen on main road near Siddhbaba, later elephants were monitoring her presence. Her brother was seen near Ranchha village. So all is well here.

Brick kiln in Tala village.

2011-09-29T23:33:00.000+05:30

Not a single person in this village Tala of district Umaria opposes the destruction of forest through various ways by villagers.
I found Brick Kilns are the biggest destroyer of habitat for Tigers around Tala village of Bandhavgarh Ntl Park.
I was simply writing the letters to different authorities since last 10-12 years. I was supported by many prominent people in India like Mr Asad Rehmani, Bombay Natural History Society wrote a letter to authorities few months back but that too could not stop these Brick Kilns.
Some one suggested me to try Change.org so I did that too. Today I submitted a petition with more than 600 signatures to District Collector Umaria for action, as he is the sole authority of the district.
Apart from that I wrote another letter about those brick kilns. Which I am pasting below.
Please read.

To, Date 28/09/2011

TheCollector

Umaria

DistrictUmaria

M.P. 484661

Subject :-Regarding Brick kilns in village Tala

Dear Sir,

I am writingthis letter with a request to stop brick kilns using firewood in Tala village.

There arefolowing reasons for to stop these brick kilns in village premises.

1. Loss ofAgricultural Land - They use top soil ofAgriculutural land. This makes land infertile for a good production of any foodcrop resulting reduction in food grain production in the country wheregrowing human population needs more foodfor the survival.

2. Loss ofForest - All these Brick kilns are for commercial use but they dont useCOMMERCIAL FUEL for commercial activity but instaead they use firewood to firethe brick kilns. This firewood is brought from nearby forest, sometimes in theshape of timber.

3. Loss ofAnimals Corridor - This collection of firewood is affecting the nearby forestof Tala village which acts as a Buffer zone and corridor for the animals ofTala range of Bandhavgarh National Park. In last twenty years I have seen theforest disappearing from surroundings of Tala village.

4. Loss of Fruit Crop - Smoke that comes out ofBrick kilns is Carbon mono Oxide thats more harmful to human and plant lifethan Carbon di Oxide. All the fruit plants in the radius of 500 meters of anyBrick kiln looses a major share of their crop. In flowering season Bees andother insects avoid these fruit trees for pollination due to heat. Brick kilnsraise the temperature of the immediate surroundings by 4-5 degrees. This sudden burst in thetemperature and constant blow of hot wind force pollinating insects to avoid thesetrees at a crucial time. This means less pollination less crop so farmersaffects directly by this.

My requestis that these brick kilns needs to be out of village premises. These brickkilns are destroying the forest by using firewood. When they all are sellingthese bricks commercially than they should use commercial fuel for firing thebrick kiln.

Brick kilnseason is about to start so May I request you to please look in to the matterto do the needful.

YoursSincerely.

SatyendraTiwari

Post andVillage Tala

Distt. Umaria.

M.P. 484661

Lokpal Bill

2011-08-30T07:03:00.000+05:30

I got off at Bhopal station this morning. Tried a coolie for my one bag which weigh less than thirty kg. Coolie asked me 80 Rs and after bargain come down to 50. I refused I wheeled it to auto stand. From here for E7 their demand was 200/ Rs. Someone advised me to go to Habibganj by nex train and take auto from there. I did. Here first demand was 70 Rs come down to 60. Dont want more hassle so agreed to 60.

Is this not a corruption?

Now the question is Will this lokpal bill solve these problems?

or we are living in a core corrupt society where everyone wants to earn some extra money through corrupt means?

Fell a sleep in the train.

2011-08-14T22:24:00.002+05:30

Last Feb(I think, dont remember exactly) we were expecting an Australian family. They were travelling from Agra by Utkal Express. Their train got delayed by 5 hours so they reach here at about 11.00 AM. We all had breakfast together and after breakfast Lady decided to go for a shower. She went to the room and within few minutes she comes back and whispers in her husbands ears and they both goes to the room. I thought there must be a gecko or spider in the bathroom which she didn't like so she must be asking him to remove it.

We were enjoying our tea and suddenly we heard gentleman shouting on her. There two daughters ignored it completely. I couldn't wait any longer so I went to their room to know the problem.

Lady said " I forgot my camera bag with my wallet and our credit cards in it." They were relying more on their credit cards while travelling in India. I thought I can get that bag easily back. They got off the Train about two hours before so train must have covered another 150 km. I assured her that if a passenger has not stolen your bag than I think I will get it back for you. I made few frantic phone calls to my friends to report this case to the different railway stations and one friend, luckily, agreed to send somebody to the station to inquire about the bag from train conductor. By this time train conductor already got the message about this incident that case is reported to authorities. He handed over the bag to the person in Bilaspur. Next morning by the time they came back from the jungle the bag was already waiting for them on the table. Each and every penny was intact along with credit cards and camera.

On 25th july when i was coming back from Agra in the same train I talk to my brother at about 5 AM informing him that train is running 30 minutes late. Than i fell a sleep between Katni and Chandia. A phone call wakes me up. Hariom asking me where r u, I said I am in the train. Which compartment? I replied AC. Than get off Train is leaving Umaria station.

In that frantic situation I grab my two bags and jumped off the train leaving behind my shoe, glasses and book I was reading. In the night I put my train ticket and money from my pocket in that book. Not much about 250 Rs.

We asked one of our friend to collect my belongings at Shahdol station. He collected them but book did not had any money in it. A fellow passenger was reading it.

So this is the story of passengers travelling in A/C Compartment. Everyone thinks these are educated honest people. Experience it and you will know which side the camel rests.

Butterflies of Chakrata - Week long tour in September 2011

2011-07-02T13:10:00.007+05:30

Chakrata is is a small cantonment town in Dehradun District, 92 km, in the state of Uttrakhand.

It is at an elevation of 7000–7250 feet.After the rains, early September is always a very good time to visit this place. Lots of moist places and flowers makes the butterflies to come out in search of mud puddling spots or necter on sunny days. My last visit to Chakrata was very successful. I came out with photographs of more than 70 species of butterflies in three days with quality photographs of more than 55 species.

Chakrata offers very good chance to see and photograph the Butterflies of Lower Himalaya region.

Chakrata Butterflies tour from 11th to 15th September 2011.

Itinerary :

Day 1 : Meeting at Dehradun Railway station. After breakfast we travel to Chakrata by Jeep. (Suggested . Travel from Delhi to Dehradun by Dehradun A/C express 12205, Leaving New Delhi 1155 reaching Dehradun in the morning at 0540) On way to Dehradun we will visit to village Kalsi to see the rock edict of the Mauryan king Ashoka 2nd Cenury BC. We will stop wherever we see an opportunity of seeing / photographing any butterflies. Our plan is to reach there lunch time and have free afternoon. Dinner over night.

Day 2 -4 : Explore the surrounding areas by foot.

Day 5 : Back to Dehradun.

End of the Tour.

Tour inclusive of :

Accommodation on twin sharing basis with Breakfast and Dinner.

Transport from Dehradun station to back to Dehradun.

All other expenditure of personal nature extra.

Tour Leader Satyendra & Kay Tiwari

All the hot spots for butterflies i.e. Tiger Falls and other places will be visited but all this depends a lot on weather that day so plan may change according to weather. Jeeps will be with us all the time to take us to different spots and villages.

There is enough time to do the train bookings and all.

For the cost and other details write me at skayscamp@gmail.com

Please see some of the butterflies photographed on our last tour to Chakrata in 2008 here.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/satyendraphotography/sets/72157609083628296/

B2

2011-06-27T12:20:00.003+05:30

In 1997 we use to visit our land in Village Ranchha more often than now. Plantation was done and overseeing the work by was my main job. Sometimes I use to go on scooter and come back to Tala via Garhpuri. One such afternoon in April 1997, I heard lots of alarm calls at Thauni waterhole. I could see a herd of Spotted Deer looking towards the fire line. I knew that this could be tiger so I stopped and to have a better view stood on culvert.

Within few minutes I saw a tigress walking with something in her mouth. When she came in an open patch I could see it clearly that it was a cub. Within thirty minutes I saw her again carrying another cub.

This was a great sighting from the main road although she was 200 mtrs or little more away from me.

After reaching home I pass on this news to a photographer so he went to look for her next morning. Next morning me and Kay went on elephant to see them. We saw Bachchi lying in a cave and three cubs moving around her. They were not more than two weeks old.

Now out of those three male cubs just one, B2 aka Sundar is still around. He had a very good life in Tala Range of Bandhavgarh National Park an now he is on his last lag of his dominance.

I am sure to see him again after the monsoon but not in very good stage of dominance.

Female cub killed by another Tiger

2011-06-14T06:32:00.002+05:30

A female cub was killed by some other tiger in the night of 10-11 june. Forest Guards at Machkheta says they heard some tiger fighting in middle of night. Tourists saw some pugmarks of Tiger and drag mark on road. They found the tiger by following those drag marks.

She was bitten on her chest and right armpit. A portion of her body was eaten. Her intestines were out and all over her body.

Question is who killed her?

A female Tiger killed her or the male or its the dispute over a tiny kill with her brothers?

Her stomach was empty and full of worms.

In January this year I saw a tigress in Ghorademon. Everyone thought this is a new tigress in this area. But when Kay checked my photos she found that its Tulsi, Mirchhani female.

So whats she doing here. Far far away from her territory?

Has B2 become useless to serve her? Is she looking for a mate here?

Yes, later on she was seen mating with Shashi, Bamera boy, in Feb and March on Rampur road.

There was another female (Wakeeta's sister) seen by us but only once or twice in the season. So where she moved?

So many questions always remain unanswered by us. That's the problem in the jungle now, can't cover an entire stretch in one park round.

World Environment Day

2011-06-05T09:19:00.004+05:30

Last night I was talking to Mr Saptarishi Sahgal about their Cattle protection Programme in village Damna. I was thinking about it in the morning again and I decided to go against the idea of Cattle Protection.

Last night when he was sitting at our place I just called one of my staff to ask him that how many Cows he have? Whats the use of them?? and How much milk they produce??

This was his answer in presence of Mr Saptarishi Sahagal.

About ten cows are there. We don't milk them and they are there mainly for cow dung manure. We feel lucky when they produce a male calf because that fetches better price in the market. He have less than 5 acre of land.

If he is telling the truth than this should be the answer of each and every villager of the area.

Now why I went against cattle protection.

Villagers are protected against their financial loss in cattle lifting by the government through cattle compensation.

If somebody wants to have ten cattle's then he should feel responsible for them. My staff said he pays 50 Rs per head to a person for grazing. He takes them out in the day to graze in nearby forest. They do not feed them in the night at home when they come back from the jungles.

Some people who get Wheat chaff feed them only after April otherwise they survive grazing in jungle. But most of the people do sell their wheat chaff for cash.

This is the same situation or worst than human population explosion. When people are responsible for their children then why not of Cattle too?

Here cattle are kept on Zero cost.

If we think on total economy of these cattle we will see that they destroy forest more than what one can imagine.

So what is the use of running a programme for cattle protection?

Its better to do an animal husbandry programme to improve the cattle breed for better milk yield which benefits the villager and reduces the pressure on nearby forest.

Villagers love to survive on subsidy so they jump on any scheme that gives them some sort of hand out.

I would like readers to put their comments on this. I will love to read some negative comments on this just to improve my understanding of village economy.

Jamnagar

2011-05-25T10:22:00.004+05:30

Jamnagar was on my list since last few years. Last year I wanted to go but after Gir it was too tiring so decided to postponed the visit.

Amish Bhais Photographs on flamingos forced me to visit the area immediately.

Birds photography does not have that much commercial value as of mammalls.

Before starting for Jamagar I was looking for Flamingo photos on different stock agency websites to find out the gap. I find that lots of easy photographs are missing. People just wants to have a long lens and close ups of the subject but they forget about the habitat and the surrounding areas.

In the present era of human population explosion, which is worst than any atomic explosion, all these creatures are having tough time for their survival. I will love to photograph birds with human presence around.

I started at 0615 from Tala by a taxi and after getting out in the parking dragging my luggage to booking window i bought my ticket to Jabalpur at 0749. All the time I was trying to control that driver even than he hit a bullock. Funny thing was that he stopped immediately got off the car to check car body. 100% It was his fault and even than he was abusing that poor villager. He was driving in full speed of 60 km above between a lorry parked on one side and bullock cart park on other side of the road. What I could do? I was sitting there like a helpless goat in a lorry. It took us only 90 minutes to complete the journey of more than 90 kms after stopping on two barriers where he has to sign the register and on one barrier he has to pay the toll tax and take the receipt. I calculate these activities must have taken 5 minutes. so 85 minutes to finish the journey.

That driver is Black listed from our list, never again to hire the car with him as driver.

Dont find good atmosphere in third A/C. Companion on other seat is a family with two children. Grand mother asking her daughter to feed the kids regularly resulting elder one of about 7 yrs of age vomiting. Somehow A/C in 3 A/C work better than 2 a/c. This makes people sleep more. but still I will say that majority of people travel in a/c compartment do not have a/c in their houses and they dont feel comfortable. They they feel catch cold. Thanks god this time attendent was good and he ignored all their requests of making the compartment little warmer.

Its difficult to keep the compartment clean. People are not use to of sitting in a clean area. They through rubbish under the seat and later complaints about cockroaches and mice.

Train reached Rajkot on time. Railway announcement system was informing about a passenger train for Jamnagar arriving at 1320 at Rajkot station and reaching Jamnagar by 1900 hrs. A GRP man suggested me to go by bus. Automan suggested to go on highway junction to get a faster bus than trying one from bus stand. He was right. He dropped me at junction and in-fact straight near a bus. So within 2 hours I reached Jamnagar and by 1600 hrs I checked-in in my hotel.

Vatsal never replied my phone but Amish bhai promised to meet me at 1700 hrs.

He was prompt. We saw few places and chose the place for the morning.

Food is a problem here. Restaurants are dirty. A person Fussy like me, will not eat in these restaurants. I am very happy eating on Road side Dhabas where food is cooked right infrnt of your eyes. Punit Hotel promised me good food so I thought to go for Masala Dosa. At the places where I am not sure about the food quality I often check food minutely. I ate plain Dosa part and opened the Masala part. There I found not one but two cockroaches cooked with potato. I did what I could do but thats not the solution of my hunger. I went down and bought few fruits. Safest thing to eat. Cook it boil it peel it or leave it.

Jamnagar could be photographers paradise and could be a very good tourist destination if local authorities could get rid of stray dogs and people showing their bare bottoms near the bird spots. One place near the Railway Yard so good for Flamingos but one can not take use his camera only because of Free View of Bare Bottoms of Women sitting in a row on the other side. This pool is hardly 100 ft wide so there are good chances of creating trouble for yourself. local community of Birdwatchers and photographers should take some initiatives to meet local authorities to develop these spots for birdwatchers. This will help in conservation and will provide a good chance for new generation to take bird watching as hobby.

I was warned not to take my camera out, just see the area. After seeing 7-8 bare bottoms in a row we even didn't stop to see the birds. So the second morning is Gone. Afternoons so far did not produce any results but I will try to make a good use of this opportunity today.

Afternoon was again not very productive because we choose to go to Local lake.

Saw a Darter with a thread struck to her beak means she cant open it and unable to fish. will she die of hunger or someone will help her?? deptt doesn't seems to be that active for this kind of things.

Next morning e again tried the same spot where we were watching courtship display. Some good pictures but by 0630 in the morning light becomes very strong.

Amish bhai could not join m in the afternoon so i decided to visit kheechadiya sanctuary. people did informed me that season is over but i thought to give it a try. It was not bad for few long shots otherwise peoples advice was right.

Last morning was a complete fiasco. the group we were photographing was missing from the spot. We visited others areas but Bare bottoms did not allowed us to use the camera.

Ultimately food problem was solved on third day when I found the Madras Hotel who serves reasonable south Indian food. Their north Indian and other dishes are useless to even try, full of oil.

I took the bus again and that was right decision to reach Rajkot in time.

My train ticket hanged to RAC. My mistake, I should have tried the ticket on Tatkal.

Anyway all in all trip was good, got few photos and knowledge for future.

Probably winter visit to Gujarat may produce some better results.

Another incident at the same spot. Andhiyaari Jhhiriya

2011-05-25T08:12:00.002+05:30

Few years back means at the time when same Tigress Tulsi was raising her second litter a man was killed and few others were injured almost at the same spot for the same reason.

People who live away from jungle cry a lot against the forest department and against the Tigers but no one try to teach villagers the situation that they understand very well.

Few weeks before I went on an Elephant during a Tiger Show to look for B2 as others were also available but I prefer him but at that spot we saw villagers man and women with children shouting and telling Mahavat where the Tiger has Gone. This was B2 who is so scared of human on foot that he left the area immediately. These people were standing merely 200 ft away from the spot where he was lying in river bed. Off-course they were on the other side of the fence.

Every Tiger doesn't behave like B2, that could be the reason of this incident.

Surely it was not mother this time (A women and a man killed by tiger on 23rd Morninng). It must have been the cubs who are seen sitting outside of the fence more than inside in last few weeks.

They have found that cattle are easy prey and few herbivores left outside are easy to kill than trying to make a kill inside of the fence. There they hit the fence and inside they run away in the jungle. So outside of the park became there preferable spot in last few weeks. Now they are showing their independence. They all have left their mother but their father is still seen with them in greed of sharing the food.

Last time it happened when villagers ignored the constant rumbling growl of the Tigress and at last she charged on one of them to get away from that spot where she felt cornered / surrounded by villagers.

Villagers should have remembered the daily scene that these Tigers can be any where in thickets. Since last one month Tourists are seeing them regularly close to the fence and i even photographed them leaping over the fence and villagers know their presence in that area very well.

Then why this happened? Does the poverty force them to put their life in danger??

Do we see that kind of poverty in that area?

How come a person living right next to the park boundary is thriving so well and others cant follow his example?

I am dead against of all these handouts given to the villagers. These handouts dont heelp them but makes them more greedy and lazy.

They treat us like idiots who keep sympathy with them in the name of Tigers.

I am living in this village since last 20 years and still waiting for a local villager who is willing to work. They all look for Govt work / panchaayat work where they get money for hardly doing and hard work.

This kind of incidents will keep on happening till the villagers will not understand the situation. We cant expect a Tiger to stop going to his favourite places in summer.

Now the situation is same as it was before. We have to learn and remember how to avoid meeting them out of the park.

Wakeeta

2011-05-18T07:08:00.004+05:30

Somehow I am not able to write posts in time, feel sorry for that.

So next season Bandhavgarh will have a tigress with young cubs. She has a very poor territory as others do. At this stage she should not be seen going outside of the park when her present litter is less than a month old. At this stage cats do not leave their litter for long.

We saw Wakeeta near Banbehi, moving towards park boundary. Her teats are showing the presence of her new litter.

This is the first litter of this Tigress sired by Shashi, Bamera male. Her sister was also present in the area till few months back. Where is she now is the question? Has she moved out out towards Pataur?? Time will tell? She should also have the cubs by now?

Who knows where they survive?

We still dont know where Kalua is gone? or his brother?

Where these tigers breed outside of the park?

Many unanswered questions?

Anyway Wakeeta has future to survive here in Bandhavgarh for few more years.

Chainlink Fencing at Bandhavgarh

2011-05-10T16:31:00.002+05:30

About 4-5 years back one of our friend photographed a Tiger sitting on road with a 4 inch long wire hanging out of his paw. I forwarded that photograph to concerned authorities and they simply denied it. Mahavats saw Lakshmi leaping over the fence and limping, this fact was never accepted and later even Mahavats changed their statements . It took me long time to be present at right spot at right time for this picture.
It looks easy but if you see the position of his forelegs and imagine when he will put his hind feet on the fence to balance himself for a friction of a second. Where he puts his hind feet and jumps is all a matter of chance. My picture shows fur flying all over around his hind feet while diving straight down on other side.
I still don't see those chain link supporters on FB now, are they there to see this? Will they please comment if this fence is useful for wildlife??
Park authorities has removed some of the fence from Dhobia Khol area. That tells us the whole story of it.

Shashi

2011-04-23T16:33:00.002+05:30

This is not summer but winter and hes trying get warm. Yes cats do love sun in winter.

Habitat Consumer

2011-04-21T09:02:00.002+05:30

At one time in this world of Prey, Predators, co-predators and camp followers there was a perfect balance, without conflict. Even man was in tune with nature, hunting with his crude weapons and also feeding on left-overs which he shared with jackals and vultures. He was a part of the ecology of Tigerland. But now, with his population explosion, technical achievements and greed in storing for the future, he has bacome not only the dominant predator in Tiger-land but a consumer of the actual habitat. From this position it is obvious that he is no more a part of the ecology of Tigerland but a defier of a natural laws. The result is clear : his position is in peril.

By late Sh Kailash Sankhala, 1977.

Vijaya found her love in Shashi.

2011-04-18T13:29:00.002+05:30

In last few weeks Vijaya aka Kankati is being seen in company with Shashi aka Bamera male. Their first meeting was little violent but since she accepted her dominance they feel very friendly to each other. They are seen mating once or twice but this mating did not last longer time. They were seen heading in different directions after a day. For cats this is not a good sign. Female cats produces egg after mating for a day or more and can abort it if they feel it as a liability or going to be tough to raise the litter size. I dont write in scientific language but one can find more material on this through Google. So they are seen together without any confrontation thats good news.

Damna and all

2011-04-17T11:30:00.002+05:30

Today's visit to few villages around Bandhavgarh was not at all shocking for me. Every villager we spoke wanted us to help them or get some help for them from different sources. This is a subsidy generation, who are born in subsidy and they will die with subsidy. Subsidy do not allow them to work. That makes them more lazy.

Majority of them were complaining about the park. Once I convinced them that now park boundary is clearly defined then they started complaining about the fence material, which is not available out side of the park. I had to tell them in a very harsher way that after few years when you will face water scarcity then again you will blame someone so better you see your future yourself and start preparing yourself for that. They agreed in the form of that they did not disagree with my point.

Free distribution of solar gadgets has made a big impact on them. In other sense it has increased their expectations. People could not answer about the use of T.B. ridden cattle. How much they worth?? The kind of money they get in compensation, sometimes, is too much to their actual value.

Mahua. Villagers are busy collecting Mahua at present. We asked them about the economics of Mahua. Some says that a person can earn about 70-80 Rs per day and for some figure goes up to 130-150 Rs per day. Whole family get involve in this. One family we saw who brought their 3 yr old child with them and even he was helping. So even if they are not earning equivalent to normal wage through Mahua they don't want to work to earn better money at this time.

I will say its tradition.

We saw a very nice stream near Damna. We wonder how long it will last? Villagers are cutting each and every tree except Mahua so wont be surprise if in next few years time this stream dries out.

I heard that Bamboo is going to be declared as a MFP material than that will be another nail in the coffin??

Bandhavgarh

2011-04-16T10:16:00.006+05:30

While writing the Conservation history of Bandhavgarh national park i found some interesting facts.

The peak time of Bandhavgarh has passed courtesy chain link fencing, human population growth on periphery, suttle climate change i.e lack of rain fall, and lack of long term Management plan.

Bandhavgarh started with zero Tiger, Spotted Deer and Leopard population. 1969 census done by Park people shows record of Sambhar, Muntjac, wild boar, chinkra , Neelgai and one leopard near Tala village.

Person who is responsible for creating 9 National Parks and 31 Sanctuaries in Madhya Pradesh told me personally that even Gaur came after 72-73 in this area.

When first tiger was sighted in Bandhavgarh sometime in 73 frantic phone calls were made to Bhopal. Bait him was the answer to the question of how to keep him in National Park boundary.

On the tunes of Kanha a regular baiting on every saturday was started here but that time there was no elephants here to show it to the tourist and this tiger also did not took those baits as often as they were offered.

This tiger must have come from Khitauli area which was a good Hunting block till 1971. Late Mr Amar Singh told me personally in presence of Late Ajay Kumar Reddy that When 7 Tigers were shot in Khitauli not a single tiger use to be seen in Tala shikargah. This was confirmed by that time CF and CCF also.

To Know more about what happened in this park please wait for my book.

Copyright Satyendra Kumar Tiwari 201, No information of this page can be used in any form without prior permission from the author.

effects of Brick kilns

2011-03-30T11:15:00.002+05:30

1) looses top soil of the land which is best for agriculture so in long run it reduces the food grain yield.

2.) increases the temperature in surrounding areas.

3) smoke affects on mango and jack fruit crop. makes them spotty and reduces the crop value.

4) increases dust pollution in the area.

5) cutting woods for firing the kiln are illegal and that reduces the forest cover.

6) reducing forest cover destroyes the corridor for wild life.

7) Brick kilns should not be in Village boundary.

8) Mining of the sand for illegal brick kilns is illegal mining.

9) According to M P Govt rules there should not be any brick kilns near human habitation and no tree should be cut along the path and water bodies.

These are the major issues against the brick kilns.

Help to Control Brick Kilns in Tala Village, Bandhavgarh National Park. India

2011-03-30T08:44:00.003+05:30

I know hundreds of Facebook friends and members visit Bandhavgarh National Park regularly every year and even some have started coming more than once in a year or have started running tours to en-cash the popularity through its Tiger sightings.

Bandhavgarh wont survive long if we all do not join together in saving it from further destruction. Tigers inside the park can not survive without a healthy buffer zone. Buffer zone is full of people, cattle and Brick Kilns those are swallowing the forest on periphery.

I tried my level best and failed to control these Brick Kilns through writing letters to concerned authorities. I am suggested to seek help of Judiciary through PIL but even than the same officers has to work under the same law hence I thought to seek the help of all of you, Friends of Bandhavgarh, to write an email to Collector Umaria under subject- illegal Brick Kilns in Tala Village of Umaria District M.P.

Please write, no matter in which part of the world you live, to Collector Umaria on following email and paste that letter on Facebook too for others as reminder to write.

dmumaria@nic.in and on dmumaria@mp.gov.in

If facebook can uproot the Govts in other parts of world than cant be just use this tool powerfully to stop these brick kilns for the sake of Tiger to whom we all love.

Help to Control Brick Kilns in Tala Village, Bandhavgarh National Park. India

2011-03-30T08:44:00.002+05:30

Please write, no matter in which part of the world you live, to Collector Umaria on following email and paste that letter on Facebook too for others as reminder to write.

dmumaria@nic.in and on dmumaria@mp.gov.in

If facebook can uproot the Govts in other parts of world than cant be just use this tool powerfully to stop these brick kilns for the sake of Tiger to whom we all love.

Lakshmi.

2011-03-15T23:58:00.002+05:30

Lakshmi was killed by Vijya, daughter of Durga. Guides saw Lakshmi going towards Judwani on 3rd morning and Vijya was seen moving i same direction on 3rd Evening. Later guides heard fighting noise.

Her body was found on 5th Morning, half eaten by Vijaya and Vultures.

Her both the cubs are fine. We saw them killing and eating a porcupine and later they killed a cow. didn't see them since last two days but their pugmarks were seen.

Mirch-hani cubs were seen yesterday afternoon and again today.In size male cubs are bigger than their mother.

Ken must b thinking why i dont write here. To tell you the truth I hardly get any time, barely can check my email.

Will write soon more.

Satyendra

R.I.P Lakshmi

2011-03-06T05:25:00.002+05:30

Yesterday morning I was on Elephant at Bhadrashila. We saw Indrani and her cub and typical of Drivers and Tourists.

I was shocked to see the behaviour of this calm tigress.

She avoids human voice, jeep noise and Elephant.

These modern Photo hunters dont have any respect for the Animal. And certain drivers have no fear of the rules.

I was angry and so angry that at the crucial time I was trying to control the traffic and my client and two other Indians on other Elephant simply wanted to see her going in the direction she wanted to go, which was simply not possible due to tourists and jeep drivers.

Kanha

2011-02-08T06:02:00.003+05:30

We set off for Kanha at about 0900 AM from Bandhavgarh. Reached Mandla at about 0100 PM to find out that road to Kanha is blocked by Kalash Yaatraa. No one knew about this festival. Someone from the crowd commented this is a part of next election otherwise in hindu calander Kumbh is not mentioned in Mandala??
Somehow we reached Singinawa by 1800 hours. Nand and Latika Rana runs this place with a style. Staff warned us about Leopard they saw near our room few days back. Spotted Deers and Wild Boares are every where around this place. If you are driving down from Baihar to Mukki then Singinawa is just after river Tannaur bridge and next to Buffer Zone of Kanha National Park. A very good place to stay for Wildlifers. Surroundings are full of birds and animals.
Mukki area in the park is coming up well. Lots of Barasingha but at this time we didn't saw many Gaur. Tiger sighting is good as they say but we didn't saw one. Kay needed to see one Tiger from the road but this didn't happen in 5 days we stayed in kanha.
I found Kisli area more drier than Mukki. Kanha meadows lost their charm. For me Kanha was very different than what I was expecting.

Tiger Tourism

2011-01-30T12:06:00.003+05:30

I just saw the pictures of Bamera male on an Indian website. After seeing these pictures and the report from my client from that Evening I am forced to say that YES I AM IN FAVOUR OF THAT PIL. If this is the behaviour people has to show in-front of the Tiger then YES WHY NOT THIS PARK SHOULD BE CLOSED FOR TOURISM FOREVER. These pictures shows that just for a photograph how close they can be so they can claim that I have it.
Everyone wants to be in-front of the queue.
It may not be any other thing but the behaviour of Tourist will certainly help the PIL.
I wish forest department and NTCA should look in to this website and findout the real truth of Tourist behaviour in the park.

Gaur translocation from Kanha to Bandhavgarh

2011-01-28T21:23:00.002+05:30

So finally Gaur are in Bandhavgarh Now.
Soon they will be major Tourist attraction here.

Elephant Ride

2011-01-27T15:24:00.003+05:30

Two of our Guests were very keen to do an Elephant ride in the park. Tiger was not their objective but if he is there well and good. We reached Bhadrashila at about 0650 and by 0700 AM we were riding on Elephant Gautam.

Two other elephants were ahead of us following Sambhar alarm call means Tiger is nearby. This excited us more. We followed other two elephants in grassland to get a glimpse of a running tiger. Within seconds he disappeared in thick jungle. We tried to locate him but failed. Soon our elephant ride turn in to a proper jungle ride. Our ride time finished at 0900 AM and so of some other clients. These other foreigners complained to their Naturalist / Driver that for most of the time we were watching the bum end of this elephant walking ahead of us.

When you are sitting sideways on elephants than who asked you to look in-front of Elephant. Mahavat is doing his job. On elephant ride one is going through the jungle to see the forest. This is lack of communication / briefing / interpretation at the lodge. Unnecessarily poor Mahavat got blamed and the visitors didn't enjoyed their ride.

My clients were very happy to see the difference in the forest. Probably my presence on elephant as interpreter made the difference.

After we got off the Elephant our driver and guide said that they saw three tigers running across the meadow and still there is a chance to see them from the road. We came out on the road and we saw one running across the meadow.

Vijaya AKA Kankati AKA D4

2011-01-24T19:01:00.003+05:30

We saw Vijaya this morning. Her eye looks bad. She challanged Lakshmi and forced her to move out of her teritory. They are still fighting and had a good fight few days back where Lakshmi chased her out of Chorbehra but not for long.

I am putting all the pictures of Vijaya's wound on my Flickr account so if interested please check

http://www.flickr.com/photos/satyendraphotography.

Kaziranga Tour December 2011

2011-01-24T16:30:00.006+05:30

Kaziranga and only Kaziranga.

6 nights in Kaziranga will produce enough opportunities to see and photograph Big and Small game of Kaziranga.

This is a Tour focussed on Kaziranga Wildlife.

For itinerary and cost of the Tour please write me on skayscamp@gmail.com

Tour Leader Satyendra Tiwari.

Photographic Tour to Bandhavgarh in April 2011

2011-01-20T18:55:00.002+05:30

A Photographic Tour to Bandhavgarh in April 2011

5 nights 9 game drives in Tala zone of Bandhavgarh.

Tiger show is on since last week so encash this opportunity.

Group Dates are.

April 22nd to 26th.

For more details of the Tour write me on skayscamp @gmail.com

Cheating Drivers in Bandhavgarh National Park

2011-01-20T12:11:00.002+05:30

It seems to me as some particular lodge drivers has indemnity for breaking the rules in the park. We often see them on wrong route or making short-cuts through illegal routes to reach particular spot before everyone.
Yesterday I was on DB route and after completing the route when i reached to Tiger spot on B route I found that jeeps behind me are already in queue way ahead of me.
I hope people wont ask me the name but watch what happens in the park.
I will love to put this on Facebook too so the normal tourist should know that what efforts were made by his driver and guides for his Tiger sighting.
At the Time of formation of TOFT we all thought now the Toft members will control their drivers and the situation in the park will improve but that thought turnout only a dream thought.

Tiger Situation in Tala zone

2011-01-18T12:33:00.003+05:30

Tiger density in Tala zone is all time high or just normal as it is since last few yrs in Tala range.
Tala zone is now of about 70 Sq km and it has these many tigers.
Three male Tigers but they are more or less using this area only for few days in a week. So Tala zone is only a part of their teritory. One sub-adult male is permanant resident in Tala zone.
There are 7 tigresses with their 12 sub-adult cubs. Out of these only two tigresses are using Tala zone only and rest visits the other areas also with their cubs.
So an area of only 70 sq km is explored by 11 adult tigers and 12 sub-adult tigers. The food requirement of these sub-adult Tigers is almost as good as of an adult. They all are 15 months + old and equivalant to their mother in size.
23 Tigers are looking for prey in a 70 sq km area.
Is there enough prey for them??
No no one has time to think about it. Lets count the Tiger numbers and feel happy??

Tiger sighting

2011-01-15T17:58:00.003+05:30

Today we saw P10 twice. Sighting this morning in Barua Naalaah was very calm and enjoyable. He was sleeping in sandy naalah and everyone was calm. Everyone had good opportunity to see and photograph him.
In the afternoon we saw him again. Not by any effort of us but by the information of other drivers and guides of other route. We were on B route and vehicles on D route saw him crossing the road. They knew that he is going to appear on Ghodademon road so everyone cheated the system and appeared on B route.
It was a chaos. Tourists shouting on drivers to go more close and close and I was shouting let him go up-till Ghodademon gorge so everyone can have a good view of him. More jeeps came from other side and this tiger decides to go off the road. We decided to leave him in peace and dont look for him any more.
Later-on he did appeared on gorge again and moved towards Banbehi.
Now the question is Will the Govt be able to reduce this kind of disturbance to the Tigers by raising the money bar more high up??
No.
Because again only the people will deep pockets will be able to enter the park and they will lure the guides and drivers to go more closer to the Tiger.
Guide Training by Toft did not helped a bit in this case.
What is the solution??
I still feel that in case if any driver breaks the rule the Lodge Owner, from where he brought the guests, should also receive a letter of warning from Forest Department.

Chainlink Fencing

2011-01-11T12:49:00.004+05:30

I would love to seeing it by my own eyes but what report I got this morning (11th Jan) from other drivers and Guides is as follows.
Some village dogs killed a Spotted Deer by chasing him to chainlink fencing near Mirchhani. A Tiger (don't know male or female but does it matter in this case, No) saw this happening from this side of fence. Dinu driver, Lala Guide and Namdev guide says that she jumped over with ease by resting her hind legs on fence, chase the Dog away to claim the injured Spotted Deer and walked away.
Jai Ho to chainlink Fencing and to its supporters.

Tiger Tourism

2011-01-10T10:16:00.003+05:30

I am going to jungle since last 4 days and have seen tigers few times but none of the sightings were great for any kind of Photography.

Yesterday we were chasing B2's pugmarks in Ghorademon but after few kilometres we realised that he was well gone before we could realise.

Later we came back to Ghorademon gorge to hear the alarm calls from Vulture Nest junction. About 10-15 Spotted Deers were giving alarm call. We could see them wagly.

I think that was a female who was moving on the road at about 0800 AM and no vehicles to follow.

It was very tempting but I resist and stayed where I should.

Then guide started telling me the story that how many peoples have done that in the past. All the big names came under his list. All those people who claim big and honest on the internet were exposed in-front of me.

Best example of these people came from one of our friend when he was staying with his group in one of the posh lodge and Naturalist / driver took them off the route on a banned route to show them tiger cubs on a tree.

Great we didn't do that yesterday for a tiny little sighting and today our clients had a great sighting for more than an hour by themselves.

It does pays itself.

My Mother

2010-12-30T06:48:00.004+05:30

My last two posts raised the question about fence and last week Lakshmi killed Pancham in Tala village. Infact it was not tigers fault. What was the need for him to move in to that direction when he knew the presence of three tigers in the field and whole village watching this drama.
Normally I sleep with my mobile phone off but on 11th evening probably i forgot to turn it off. On 12th morning at 0413, Omhari my youngest brother called, to say Bai had a blood vomit you start soon. He was crying. I knew its all over for her. I rang back to him asking her condition. This time call was received by younger brother Devendra saying we have just come back from hospital and it is all over. Come soon.
I went to Hariom's room to tell him this news. He knew it by then.
She spent her last day happily talking with family and friends and was busy till 10PM. Had a glass of milk before going to bed. At 4 AM she called Omhari saying she is feeling sick and may vomit. By the time he comes to her room she already vomit blood. He supported her, she vomit 2-3 times again in succession.
We all are shattered by her death.
We were not expecting her to die so early.
Only sickness she had was her kneee problem and some blood pressure.
Yes she was over weight but at the age of 80 we couldn't do any thing to her weight.
We know that she had a very lonely life after my fathers death in 1974. She never let us feel poor even when we were very poor. We all miss her.
If the beleifs are true then she is united with her beloved Husband.

Chainlink Fencing.

2010-12-18T13:02:00.003+05:30

All of a sudden all the supporters of chainlink fencing has gone quite. Till few months back there were so many supporters of this chainlink fencing.

Anyway all these chainlink supporters did not do any good to the Wildlife, neither to prey and not to predator.

I was looking for this picture and this morning I got it.

A big herd of Spotted Deer grazing outside of the park. Certainly these deers were left outside at the time of fence erection. Tigers do go out but not for deer. Their favorite meal outside is cattle.

This morning I was told by a deputy Ranger that B2 and Mirchhani female and cubs were on cattle kill. They killed a buffalo and a bullock. It will be interesting to know the number of cattle kills per month done by these tigers.

Do you know that Leopard population in Tala zone is as good as Tigers and they survive 100% on wildlife. Think about the day, like Tigers, they start coming outside in search of prey ???

Enjoy seeing these Spotted Deers outside of Tala Zone.

Chainlink Fencing and Tigers of Bandhavgarh

2010-12-08T08:53:00.002+05:30

There is no proper research is being done on usefulness of Chain link Fencing around the parks.

Forest department officials claim is that it stops cattle entering the park. I say what harm it makes when that provides prey base for Carnivores.

I oppose it for two reasons.

It blocks corridor for Tigers and other wildlife.

It let young Tigers to stay with their mother or in their mothers territory more than what they should. i.e. Pyari's 4 cubs from her last litter stayed for 3 1/2 years in their mothers territory and diminished the prey base in Chakradhara meadow area.

Chakradhara female left her area with her present three cubs in Jan 2010 and came back during monsoon for few weeks and left again around Janmashtami.

She is not back since but now her territory is being taken over by Vijaya aka Kankati. In last 40 days Vijaya is seen at Sitamandap junction, Barua Naala, Jamunia, Near Tala entrance Gate, behind M P Tourism in river, Chorbehra, Dhobiakhol, main road Siddhbaba, Dudwa Fireline, entire chakradhara, Badi Gufa, KHIDKI and Ghodademon road.

This use to be the territory of Pyari and Laxmi both. Now Vijaya is pushing Laxmi more towards Judwani, Ketkiya - Bhitri area.

Other thing what she will do is that she will deminish the remaining prey of the area.

Laxmi's cubs have already started chasing fawns. So soon they will start hunting for themselves and most of the new fawns will be gone.

What use to happen before??

Before Tigers from Chakradhara use to go out prey on deers and cattle out of the park.

Now fencing stops them from going outside and deers outside of park are disappearing fast.

I dont understand that why we dont work according to Govt rules laid out for wildlife conservation. Pay Cattle compensation. We were paying them before and paying them today then whats the need of erecting a fence.

People were living happily with Tigers and even with more tigers in Raj period. Only our political system changed their mentality and made them more lazy. Now for each and every thing farmers looks at subsidy. They dont want to do any improvement work without subsidy either it is buying a tractor or digging a well.

Laxmi injured her leg in this Chain link fence. Another male tiger was seen and photographed with a wire struck in his pad.

I have seen many different Tigers walking along the fence in Bandhavgarh.

I wonder how many NGO's are supporting Chain link fencing?? Do they know the result of their act??

Just day before yesterday I was told by a NGO man that Lodges who run NGO does work only to keep a good relationship with park authorities so their lodge could run smoothly.

Aims looks far far away from wildlife.

Just think on this. With number of vehicles in each park in the country the poaching should have been stopped. Did it??

And they are still getting / demanding more vehicles.

Sick Tigers or Tourists

2010-12-07T11:59:00.002+05:30

Last month I saw a foreigner women crying at the gate because she saw injured B2. This thing made so much fuss that forest department has to put all the elephants of Hardia to track him. We saw him and minutely scrutinised those photographs for his wound and our view was that wounds are not so serious.

Once we were talking to a very experienced vet from Britain who works mainly with cats, all big and small, and after seeing our cats her comment was that until a cat is eating no need to worry about their wound. This works with all cats.

B2s wounds were dry and healing. None of his wounds were weeping and none had any maggots but even than poor fellow got tranquilised and later given an antibiotic. Now Mahavat says he runs for miles after seeing an elephant. Good old B2.

I am so thankfull to all those women who saw Vijaya or Kankati and did not see her wound otherwise they would have cried more than for their h....... death.

Her injuries were far more serious than B2. Now they are almost healed and even she is pushing the Laxmi ,Limpy Lady.

Cats have amazing power to recover. Most important thing for them is constant supply of food. An old and injured Tiger dies only when he is unable to find the food for himself. Charger survived on scraps in his last lag of wild life. If he was not found that day by villagers he would have died of starvation and dehydration.

So Vijaya or Kankati is doing well in Chakradhara. In search of food she has to make rounds and rounds of her teritory around Chakradhara. She did made few attempts to come on main road but failed to grab any substantial food.

She has pushed Laxmi in such a small area of Judwani Jamunia that next few months will be very important for both of them to retain their teritory.

Tigers of Bandhavgarh.

2010-12-06T14:15:00.003+05:30

Since last 40 days I am visiting park in the morning and as well in afternoon. Lots of tiger sightings. Few photographable and few simply superb.

I need to talk about different matters today, hope I remember them all.

First driving by different drivers in the park.

This year there are many new drivers are seen in the park. One of them I know was digging well on my land last year and this year he is driving. My driver tells me that there are ten more drivers like him. So what they know about the park and its animals.

Their total aim is to show the Tiger to their client from as close as possible to earn a better tip.

This is very good for other pro photographers because by this way drivers and guides comes in habit of driving it to close, even for photographers, and kills all the chances of photographing behaviour.

Same thing happened today. We saw B2 and we were asking the guide and driver to move on to give him some space to come on road so everyone gets a better chance of photography but Indian Tourists were happy by driving parallal to him. Little they knew that this Tiger dont look at vehicle but changes his course. And he did that.

Forest authorities never been able to control these drivers and guides.

Tourists needs to know What is a good picture?? A tiger walking parallal to jeep in woods or a tiger walking towards jeep from a distance??

Who will teach them?? Guides and Drivers can do this but they get carried away by the greed of Tips.

Thats why many times we dont see much of a behaviour of an animal in presence of jeeps.

Every one is talking about Kalua and Pyari chakradhara female with her 3 cubs missing from Tala zone. No one so far has found the right reason of them leaving the park area. All these people who are getting worried about Kalua and Pyari and cubs has to see the park again with wide open eyes. How much prey base is there in their area??

Is it suffiecient to hold a tiger??

I think if they will see the park again they will know the answer. They left the park only because of Food.

Things will g even worse in next few months.

Female cub from Rajbehra has found the chakradhara. She is becoming a mature tigress and she is pushing Laxmi out of Chorbehra.

Laxmi cant hunt independently / frequently and new female, known as Vijaya or Kankati is killing the remaining prey base from Chakradhara.

In Chakradhara I did not see more than 50 Spotted Deer yesterday. Which is not enough for a tigress. In search of food she is moving in surrounding areas of Chakradhara.

Similar things are happening in other areas of the park.

We need to keep an eye on this. How is prey base in Bandhavgarh?? Is it suffiecient for Carnivores to survive??

P10 aka Shashi

2010-11-01T18:34:00.002+05:30

Yesterday everyone saw Lakshmi and her cubs. It was very early in the morning, people had some good portraits except me as I didn't took my camera to the jungle. I think I didnt miss anything as I already have similar or better close up of tigers.

Today we saw P10 AKA Shashi.

It was a fantastic sighting. We saw him late in the morning. Infact we were looking for a classic Spider web and he appeared. We followed him for more than an hour. No jeep in sight was another advantage. My two clients were using 500 and 600 mm Nikon lenses so we gave him enough space to do what he wanted to do. Lots and lots of behaviour shots. Spray, sniffing the tree, clawing the tree, climbing on the tree, licking the tree, chewing tree bark, eating bamboo leaves were the main pictures.

TIGERS

2010-10-31T21:18:00.002+05:30

Since last one week I am visiting park almost everyday. Had some good sightings. Rajbehra Female cub and Lakshmi were the prominent sightings. Pyari with her three cubs is out again. She is vunerable. Is she going out of her area due to lack of prey base or she is trying to dump her cubs?? I think there is not enough prey base left in the park?? These many tigers cant survive on such a thin population of Deers.

Some very nice Spiders were seen.

Lakshmi was hungry and limping more than last June. She is a beauty.

Park and Durga

2010-10-17T05:36:00.004+05:30

Very annoyed since he day this Durga Pooja started in this village. not a single minute of peace in day or night. Three loudspeakers are in competition of making noise. I have heard that Sarpanch Pati was slapped by a lady because of this. Later no police action butloudspeaker gone more louder than normal. I put a complaint on M.P.Samadhan but no avail. This thing has gone so bad in this village that every person fears. Police and district authorities doesnt take any notice of any complaint in this regard.
Majority of people involve with these Durga Pandals belongs to schedule cast society means you cant go and ask them to turn it down to permissible volume limit because next minute someone will complaint agaist you in the ploice that you abused them and they all will stand witness to it this is enough for a person to lend in jail.
One of my friend who a house in next village but since last few years lives in UK tells us everytime we speak to him that why dont we go back to UK or New Zealand. But is that an option? Wont it be a very coward act on my part that instead of fighting I run away from this battle? I complained this to each and every department including MPEB who are ignoring the illegal electricity connection. Has this country gone so corrupt that people wont untill some money is involved in the case?
What is the solution?
I will go to High Court with this case thats the only sollution I find.
Park is getting more and more support for Fencing. It has already turned in to a Glorified Safari National Park. People are very happy with the present situation so Jai Ho Bharat Mata ki.

Park Rules

2010-10-14T12:19:00.002+05:30

A quick Short note on the park fee in M.P.
Govt of M.P. decided to revert back the hiked entry fee and Premium Zone for this season.
So now Indians has to pay Rs 1000/ per vehicle per trip for 6 pax and Foreigners Rs 2000/ per trip / vehicle for 6 Pax.
I will advice to keep visiting Magadhi zone in the morning for Tiger Show.
32 vehicles in Tala zone + 3 vehicles entry power with forest deptt makes it 35 vehicles.
Fort visit is again back on foot from Sheshshaiyya. But now we have to shell out more money for this.
For charges and all look at www.mponline.gov.in
Best wishes.
Satyendra

Park Rules.

2010-10-06T16:30:00.002+05:30

Through these new park rules I think I wont be able to see many of my friends visiting this place again. They enjoyed visiting Bandhavgarh and helped a lot in getting it right kind of publicity in Europe. Iain Green wrote two books on Bandhavgarh but could not afford to visit since last 5 years. Ken Hawkins is the other friend who will think twice before coming here about the expenses. There are quite a few names like them to add in this list.

M.P.Govt decided to increase the park entry fee for Indians from 16th October 2010. Because none of the Tour operator or the travel agent or big lodge owners were going to affected by this so no one raise the voice against it and small lodge owners - jeep owners who are really going to affected doesnt have any plateform to raise their voice.

Yesterday I heard another rumour that Tala zone of Bandhavgarh is going to be declared as Premium Zone means Entry fee to this zone will be just double.

So Indians entry fee increased from Rs 500/ per trip to Rs 1000/ per trip in October 2010 and then again from Dec 2010 they have to pay Rs 2000/ per trip for Tala zone.

I remember one Chief Wildlife Warden of Madhya Pradesh saying that we need more and more teachers and families with kids to visit National Parks. This will help in spreading the conservation message to the future generation. Can they afford to visit National Parks now??

Lots of discussion is going on o diferent plateforms but will they raise the voice on this issue?

Once the vehicles allowed in a National Park are according to the carrying capacity of a park then what is the need of declaring it as a premium zone??

Where is the Experience of wildlife viewing in the park??

In order to please their guest with camera a driver can create havoc in the park.

This is what gave Bandhavgarh a very bad publicity.

Can situation improve??

How.

When a person spends this kind of money he wants some return. That creates the problem.

Thats the reason we dont accept day visitors at our place. Most of our clients stays with us minimum for five nights. Many of our photographer clients pack their camera gears by 8AM in winter and 0730 in the summer.

One photographer use to come with 5 film rolls on a 3 week stay with us. Once he had 40 sightings from jeep and more than half of the films were used on Baby Elephant.
That breed of Photographers is dyieng out fast.
How many Indian photographer can behave like Mr Nanak Dhingra??
Who comes just for a particular shot and for that one shot he will wait for weeks.
No pressure on anyone, neither on Driver and nor on Guide.
Let me come on Main subject.
So when vehicle nos are reduced according to the carrying capacity of the park than what is the need to declare it as a premium Zone??
Do they change their statics all the time??
Looks like.
Carrying capacity formula was created by NTCA and applied in all Indian National Parks.
This formula was created to control the vehicle numbers.
Later on NTCA, infact MOEF, asked all the State Govt. to regulate the tourism in Tiger Reserves.
In the name of regulisation this Premium Zone idea has come up. Off the record this is to generate the revenue??
Here comes another question.
Things of National importance such as National Parks, Archeological Monuments, Museums etc are run by Govt on tax payers money.
Each and every citizen have similar rights on them. In archeological monuments and Museums we pay a token money to enter. But in National Parks in M.P. we as partner / owner of the National Park as Tax Payers has to pay the cost to share the upkeep of the parks.
Is it justified?
Will it save the Tigers in long run?
Readers comments will help me in understanding the situation.

Pachmarhi Tour Sep 2010

2010-09-01T15:53:00.003+05:30

At this time of the year Pachmarhi will be at its best for its scenic beauty, Landscape, birds, Moths and Butterflies.

This trip will provide you ample opportunities to photograph Pachmarhi and its rich Flora and insect life. Butterflies and Moths can be at its peak.

Finding the Pachmarhi Bush Brown can be a challenge. It's not being seen since last few decades.

Itinerary is here as under.

Day1. 22nd September.--- Arriving at Pipariya station for Pachmarhi. Pachmarhi is only 55 km from here. MPSRTC buses and Taxi are available from Bus stand, right outside of railway Station. 55 km journey to Pachmarhi takes about 90 minutes. Stay at hotel in twin sharing accommodation Non A/C room. All meals inclusive. Afternoon visit to jatashankar. Over night stay.

Day 2. 23rd September.---- We are using Gypsy to visit Mahadev, Handi Khoh, Water fall and Dhoopgarh. At all these places except Dhoopgarh we have chance to walk and look for butterflies and other things.

Day 3. 24th September. ---Today we will select the place to visit on our experience of previous day.Bee Fall and other places are on agenda. There could be some good walking involve today.

Day 4 25th September.--- Morning free. Feel free to choose your place through mutual understanding with other people, so you make a full use of Gypsy.

Early lunch and Check out at 12 noon. Bus to Pipariya.

This is the itinerary I have prepared for three days tour to Pachmarhi. I know this does not give us enough time to book your train tickets but now a days with little skill train tickets can be booked on Tatkal service through www.irctc.co.in

If you need more information or cost please write me back on skayscamp@gmail.com

Please spread the word in your friends circle, you might find a companion there.

Amritsar

2010-08-23T16:20:00.004+05:30

After reaching Jammu we decided to see Amritsar. This turned out to be wise decision to use time wisely. We left Hotel under heavy rain. We needed a honest Auto driver and this time we had one. He took so many short cuts to avoid the traffic jam but where ever we went we found the worst situation than before. (see the picture above) Somehow we got a seat in Muri Express. Shailesh fell a sleep straight away. Finding a Hotel in Amritsar was another task. Shailesh knew that there are hotels right outside of Golden Temple so that was our target. We selected an innocent looking boy as our auto driver and asked him to drop us in a hotel outside Golden Temple. His instant answer was yes but minutes later he tried to dump us in a lane saying Golden Temple is just on walking distance from here. We knew this trick so refused to get off. He tried another hotel and at last refused to go to the destination we agreed for. We got off and decided to look for hotel by ourselves. A traffic man guided us and Shailesh found the right place to stay.
We had a quick visit to Golden Temple and dinner at Bharawan Da Dhaba. Naam bade aur Darshan Chhote. Food and service was not that good as we were told. That was disappointing. Shailesh missed his Chicken, god knows where that restaurant was.
Next morning again we visited Golden Temple and Jalianwalla Bagh. We both were impressed with cleanliness and with the behaviour of devotees and people at Golden Temple. I did not go to Vaishno Devi temple but Shailesh's comment was that he was pushed by police man at Vaishno Devi and hardly got a second to have Darshan. I knew this. Thats the one reason I have stopped going to the temples. I stopped it after my fathers death in 1974. Now I firmly beleive in my own God to whom I pray every day at home. Now I am not an orthodox religious person but prayer has become a habit.

I liked visiting Jaliyanwaalaa Bagh. One reason behind that was because we read about it in school days and that horror image was drawn in the brain that in order to save their life how people jumped in that well. Bullet marks, Well and the place from where they were fired completes the picture.

We still had some time to visit Bagha Border. We took a taxi for Bagha. There we found that visitors are allowed only after 1630 PM. Driver knew this fact but he didn't wanted to loose his business. We did see Atari railway station.

I salute to all those freedom fighters who lost their life that day.

That evening we took a train to Delhi. Next day Shailesh left for Jabalpur while I decided to go and see my family in Mainpuri.

Amarnath

2010-08-19T06:23:00.003+05:30

Visit to Vaishno Devi was tiring. I was alright but Shailesh had difficulty in walking on 5th. His excuse was that we came down very fast. He was calculating our speed, 6 km per hour. This was too fast for him while it looked a normal pace for me. He often asked me to slow down even on street.
We were getting very different news from our friends and family about Amarnath. Local papers were not talking about the disturbance on way to Shrinagar. Anantnag was the city we need to cross for Pahalgam. My family told me about stone pelting in Anantnag and curfew in that area. I checked the weather and that also doesn't look promising. I don't want to spend a night in any army camp was my major worry. Shailesh was still very keen to go forward with the plan while I was trying to go safe and use time wisely. We completed our registration formalities on 4th itself and got the permit on 5th. I went to see the pilgrim starting point at 5 in the morning. More than thousand people were waiting for Yatra to start. Some other pilgrims from Maharashtra staying at the same hotel already left at 0430 in the morning. After seeing all these people I, myself alone, decided to go forward and booked a taxi for us. When I came to room and told Shailesh that we are going his first remark was, you take decision very fast. I said when everyone is going then why left behind. Everyone will have the same fate so let us go.
We started from Jammu at about 0900 AM, asked the driver to stop for breakfast and ATM. Tandoori Stuffed Paratha with curd were best I ever had. Shailesh added some more butter and Dal to his breakfast. I was shocked and surprised by the amount of butter he eats per day. I warn him but he says he likes it.
We were sharing one mobile phone with local sim for outgoing calls only. So it needed its battery recharged more often than normal. By mid day battery was low and we needed to stay in touch with friends and family on hourly basis. BSNL is not the favorite phone service provider in the area. We realised this while looking for recharge voucher for our sim.
There were many Langars offering free food to pilgrims. In fact many people were en cashing the opportunity. We were stopped by Army at Mirpur. Pahalgam is another 70 km from here. Our plan was to reach Pahalgam before dark but now we are directed towards CRPF camp in Mirpur.
we were not the only people in the camp. Some pilgrims went to Amarnath via Pahalgam and came back via Baltal, thinking that they will go to Pahalgam to collect their baggage later by road but got struck here since 0800 AM. Army personal were friendly and so friendly that they opened their canteen for pilgrims. I saw many disappointed people here including Shailesh who couldn't get Alcohol from the shop.
One J&K police officer told us that Jattha will depart from here after 11 PM. Langar was on, tea earn was filled regularly, women started helping in making Roti. There were more than 200 vehicles by the time Jattha started from here at 11 PM. Shailesh commented on our taxi drivers driving that he drives very slow, everyone overtake him in daytime.
Within an hour or 70 minutes we reached Pahalgam. Baggage was checked again through metal detector and so the pilgrims. We asked him to take us to some Hotel. It must have been fixed. Hotel in which we landed did not had clean bedsheets, first he brought a blanket cover later the sheet he brought was too short on bed. After lots of argument we left the Hotel peacefully but finding the other at this time of the night was a problem. I asked Shailesh to choose the room this time. We checked many Kabootarkhanas and at last surrendered to one boy who offered a room in new hotel but little far away from the town. Without any more argument on condition of sheets and bathroom we just asked for another blanket and went to sleep.
Morning was good, crystal clear at 0530 but within minutes clouds started covering the hills. I took few photos and ordered tea.
After seeing their makeshift kitchen I asked Shailesh to have breakfast in town. Here we found a DAANAA PAANI restaurant run by a Sikh family. Food was good and again we filled our belly with stuffed Parathas and Dahi.
Yatra was stopped due to bad weather. Helicopter service was out of operation since last 4 days.
What to do?? How to keep our self busy? Decided to see local places. Taxi man suggested to visit Aru and Betaab valley.

Aru is a small village 12 km away from Pahalgam. Betaab valley, think of this name. What it can be. It is nothing but a nice site near a river where they shot Betaab, a bolywood film. Aru is much more scenic spot than Betaab. Horse ride could be fun in Aru but not in rain. Rain makes trails very slippery and dangerous to walk. Many pilgrims died this year. Omhari saw two horse with riders slip down in the gorge on Baltal route. Horseman simply said Ghoda gaya. He was not at all worried about the rider. 6 dead bodies of Amarnath Pilgrims were brought down by CRPF on 7th August and cremated in Pahalgam. Because all these things can affect their business so local people don't talk about it.

Betabb valley is a big park type ground. We saw local women cutting grass there so it is not a protected area. Lidder river flows through this park. Shailes noticed the smell around river area but we couldn't find the source. Later when we were walking along the river we found that smell was coming from the water. Thousands of pilgrims has polluted the river. No sanitation facility compel them to use the field.

Shailes did some shopping and we decided to leave Pahalgam in the evening. Again they were releasing all the pilgrim vehicles together from Pahalgam. So to join the Jattha we have to be in queue by 0730- 0800 PM. we left Pahalgam dot 1100 PM. I decided to sit in front to keep an eye on the driver. Driver somehow managed some booz for Shailes so he happily slept on rear seat. We reached Jammu by 0700 AM. Street in Anantnag was littered with wind screen Glass.

Weather was still cloudy and we drove through the rain. Driver Manjur in Pahalgam confirmed the rain on 8th morning. No helicopter flew and neither the Yatra was allowed on 8th. We felt happy with our decision of leaving Pahalgam early. We still have a day so we decided to visit Amritsar.

Vaishno Devi

2010-08-18T22:22:00.003+05:30

Yes I had been to Vaishno Devi. We (Shailesh and Me) reached Jammu on 4th afternoon and on same evening we took a bus for Katra, the base camp for Vaishno Devi. Bus journey is like any other bus journey in the country. Bus will move only when the Driver and Conductor agree on passenger numbers. I was not at all in a mood to climb the hill in dark. we started our journey at about 2100 hrs on horse back and reached temple site little after mid-night. After seeing the display board, things you can't carry to the temple, I found it a good excuse to avoid the Devi Darshan. Shailesh decided to carry on so I come back to a dharamshala and booked two beds in Dormitory for us. Shailesh came back at about 0330 in the morning and went straight to bed. It was a nice and clean place, run by Trust. Their canteen is very popular. They serve food cheaper than Katra. After a cup of tea in the morning we decided to stroll back to Katra. Shailesh agreed. Little he knew about his health otherwise he would have refused.
We didn't had any dinner or breakfast so we both were starving. Looking for a decent restaurant for breakfast was tough. At one place where we decided to have b/fast saw a lady complaining about an insect in sambhar. I quickly changed my order to few chocolate bars.
Shailesh was hungry and tired so we decided to stop on next restaurant. At one place we saw fresh stuffed parathas on hot plate and decided to have breakfast here only.
By the time we reach Katra town Shailesh was completely exhausted. One Massage wallah saw his condition and tried hard to get the business. 20 rs is not a big deal for ten or fifteen minutes massage. This is dry massage. Oil massage cost five times more.
We used pony to go up. I will say that was a mistake. Best way is to take the pony uptill Ardh kumari or Tempo stop and from there just take the Battery tempo. This way it is cheaper and more comfortable. We both realised our mistake after an hour or so sitting on that Pony. One can do the same thing on way back, even from Ardh Kumari one can stroll back. It takes more than an hour with very gentle pace. We need to learn manners, only that can keep this site clean. I saw people throwing rubbish every where on path and on hills. And of course the trust itself do not try to keep the path and hill area clean. They empty the dust bin on hill.

Jabalpur-Bhopal via Hoshangabad.

2010-07-24T20:46:00.002+05:30

I should have been in Bhopal on 14th but couldn't go there due to staff. Computer repair and plants were the two major jobs of this visit. Hariom dropped me at Umaria station to board the Ambikapur Jabalpur train. Very Good train for Jabalpur, hardly takes three and half hours to complete the journey. Kishan Pillai runs a Taxi now so I used his Taxi to go to SFRI and Other places.
Aristolochia was on top of my prioriy list. I found seven plants of it so I bought them all. Another plant was Stevia. I love it. Question is How long I will be able to save it from leaf tasters. It is sweet, bloody sweet.
Bhopal was wet, moving on scooter was difficult. Ajeet dropped me at the station. I was amazed that they allow him to drive car in night. Train journey was good, I slept all the way through uptill Madan Mahal.
Best thing I saw was Baya nesting in a well. Hardly 15 feet from the ground one can see about 12 nests in process of completition. Male trying to attract female through the display on their cup shaped nest. I didn't took my camera with me so cant show any photos but soon I will try to get it done.
Pyari is back in Chakradhara with her cubs after spending more than five months in Dobha forest.

Animal and Insect life in our Garden

2010-07-18T13:14:00.002+05:30

Few days of rain and few open sunny days put the dead garden back in to life once again. This year summer was hard on plants. We decided to water only trees or those plants that can tolerate the heat and survive so many of our flower plants and food plants for butterflies died this summer but monsoon brought them back.

In the morning small Gulmohar, Yellow Elder and Zinia attracts Lime and Common Crow Butteflies. Few days back there were lots of Common Rose and Crimson Rose in the garden but none since last three days. Tridax attracts all the small size butterflies but surprisingly no grass yellows seen so far. All three kind of Parakeet visits the garden but different times. Plum Headed and Alexandrine come for Guava's in winter, than only Plum Headed comes for Mangoes when unripe and hard and once they are ripen than Rose Ringed Parakeet comes to finish them.

We have Dussehari (10 trees), Chaunsa (9 trees) & three trees of desi mangoes. Other animal that we have as a resident / visitor to the garden is a family of Indian Palm Civet. Now they are all adult in size and devouring the Mango, Guava, Papaya and Cheeku in the night. We see their poo every where in the morning. They comes to our Veranda. Here they poo every where may be because of cats. They just wants to to leave their scent mark on top of theirs.

It was great fun photographing them. Few years back I photographed them eating Mango and Guava. Our nieces Munmun and Mahi love watching them in the night. Sometimes these Civets ignore them completely. Once a female brought a big mango and started eating it about a feet away from Munmun's feet.

Crows are the other birds who always knows before us that which mango is ripened. They bring it down on ground then beetles and butterflies start enjoying it. After few showers of rain Mango's start getting bugs inside. This is because a moth lays its eggs in them.

This morning Common Crow, Great Eggfly and Lemon Pansy are seen feeding on ripen mango on ground.

Red headed vulture killing White-backed Vulture in Bandhavgarh

2010-07-14T10:18:00.007+05:30

Bandhavgarh national Park is situated in Umaria distt of Madhya Pradesh India. Four species of Vultures Long-Billed Gyps indicus, Red-Headed Aegypius calvus,Egyptian Neophron percnopterus and Whit-rumped Gyps bengalensis -are resident here. On May 28, 2008 at 0701 am we spotted a White -rumped Vulture near a stream in the Dadra meadow. It appeared sickly in a sitting posture with head bowed. Nearby a couple of Red-headed Vultures were feeding on a carcass of what appeared to be another dead vulture. At 0705 am while we still watched the sickly bird walk further away, a Red-headed Vulture flew from a nearby tree and landed on the unaware bird, followed by another within seconds.

By now the first vulture was pecking at the white rumped as it sat on its back. The White-rumped Vulture tried to defend itself by counter attacking with its beak, but it seemed unable to escape the grips of the heavier and healthier bird anchored on its back. The second Red-headed Vulture appeared unwilling to join the attack, possibly due to hierarchy, and simply stood watching.

After ten minutes of suffering,the White-rumped Vulture manage to escape and hop off to safety after the Red-headed Vulture became distracted by more arrivals.There were no further attacks on the bird for the following fifteen minutes.

The following morning at the same spot there was a gathering of 8 or 9 Red-headed Vultures. They were feeding on the carcass of a recently dead White-rumped Vulture. One bird appeared dominant and as it fed the others stood around watching. It is probable that this was the carcass of sick looking White-rumped Vulture we have observed the previous day.

Vultures feeding on dead Vultures may not be uncommon in Bandhavgarh, however, it is the first time that Vultures appearing to attack sick looking Vultures for food has been documented.

Surely this does not mean that these vultures in Bandhavgarh are facing any kind of starvation. This could be a case of opportunist behaviour for getting easy convenient.

Expert Comments: The Vulture sitting on the back of the White-rumped Vulture is a regular posture of an attacking Vulture. Vultures do this for driving other Vultures from food or a perch. It is unlikely that a Red-headed Vulture was attempting to kill White-rumped Vulture. Vultures do sometime takes live prey, but only small ones like Turtles,Rats or Lizards. Vultures do sometime feed on other dead Vultures.

This was published in Bombay Natural History Society journal, Hornbill, Jan-March, 2009.

We thought and our thought were confirmed by Mr Patric Benson and Mr Munir that this bird was a juvenile Long-billed Vulture but BNHS people thought it otherwise hence it published as White-backed Vulture.

Newly born died in the Family

2010-05-21T21:02:00.003+05:30

Since morning Littlen was crying to come in. At last we let her come in with Tea. Kay was stroking her suddenly she realised that she is leaking. We put her on floor. She was crying to come back on bed. I brought a bed for her and she was put in this box. She will not leave Kay for a minute so she has to sit next to the box. Probably Littlen has no idea that what is happening in her body. She keep on making rounds and rounds in the room, leaking. After an hour or so she started delivering the kitten. First kitten was born dead and premature. She ate it instantly. She is not feeling more pain now. Second kitten was born after another thirty minutes or so. This kitten was healthy and birth was quick. She cleaned him but didn't knew what to do. Left him unattended. This happens with young experienced mothers.
Third kitten was born dead and other way around. She could not deliver him. Half of his body was hanging outside and she was running around in pain. Kay got worried and asked me to get some help. I asked Kali to call Nurse from Vet. Hospital. By the time Kali could go she delivered it.
Out of three new two born dead, one she ate and one got buried in the Garden.
This took away our morning working hours.
Now Littlen is comfortably sleeping in her box with her one kitten.

Bharatpur, Rajasthan

2010-05-20T21:58:00.003+05:30

A day at home just to change the clothes in the bag and download the photos from Gir and again ready for Bharatpur.

Train journey was very quite except few mobile phones ringing in middle of the night. I wonder if ever country will have quite trains/coaches. Dinner packed by Kalicharan was very helpful in the train. Train reached Agra about an hour and a half late and this made us run to Agra Fort so we don't miss our connecting train to Bharatpur.

In Rome live like Romans so we cross the railway track at Agra Fort station to board the train. There was no other option except this. Cant go over the bridge in two minutes time was the thought in mind.

Travelling in A/C Chair car was a mistake. Suffocating and No fresh air in the compartment because A/C wont work in slow speed train.

We face the severe heat of Rajasthan, Temp was touching 47degrees. Spoonbill room walls were hot. Within few hours we decided to come down to comforts of ground floor room. We had a quick cup of Tea and within minutes we were ready for the Park.

Now park authorities are providing the bi-cycles. Good move with poor maintenance. Park was dry like bone. Dead turtles were telling the story of drought. We think that these Turtles could have been saved easily but after seeing the working of forest staff we could understand that how difficult it is for the management to get the needed work done. Lack of dedicated staff is the sad part of Wildlife Conservation in India.

Reason to visit Bhratpur this time was to attend the Marriage of Junie, daughter of Sh Arun Deo Sengar. It was a grand marriage. Everything up to the mark.

We met quite a few people there but meeting with Mr Girish Mehrotra was special. We need to see him some time in Allahabad.

we could not find any taxi to go back to Agra from Bharatpur. This was quite interesting. Someone offered his private car but his charges were much more than a proper Taxi. At last we decided to go by bus. Hot but faster journey to Agra. Bus took only 75 minutes to Namner. 5 minutes walk to brother-in-law's house. Quick cup of tea with lots of helpings of sweets from marriage filled the belly.

Train was again more than 90 minutes late. Kay missed her sizzler at Rieo. Journey back home was noisy. Too many crying kids with useless parents.

Reached home mid day and ask Kalicharan for a big Cup of Chai.

Gir, Sasan Gir Gujarat.

2010-05-13T03:17:00.010+05:30

Uri Goleman asked me to meet him in Gir so we could discuss some future business together. It was very difficult for me to short out my visit on such a short notice but it all got arranged courtsy Railways Tatkal ticketing system. I asked Omhari at Hoshangabad to book my return ticket and I printed it in Ahmedabad. My journey from Gir to Tala I completed in three different class in the same train.
Initially I was not sure about my programme so Uri found some Mr Kamlesh from Rajkot to guide him in Gir. Uri came with his another friend Mr Thomas, a Photoshop expert. I reached Sasan on 6th evening but couldn't find Uri at Sinh Sadan. At about 11pm Uri knocked on my door. We discussed the morning plan and decided to go to jungle together.
Had a nice morning. I felt other people were not feeling very easy with my presence in the jeep. I was not at all in a position to help them so I decided to become a spectator.
After morning game drive Uri told me that Kamlesh says that it wont be possible for me to go along with them for day outing. I simply said "thats fine with me."
I booked my jeep and got the permit. I had two safaris by myself on 7th afternoon and 8th morning. Saw few lions but nothing for photo.

Uri came back on 8th afternoon. First I thought I wont join them but later I changed my mind. They saw nothing in last 24 hours. No photo opportunty of any sort. Uri claimed a Sunbird photo as a reward.

It was so secretive plan and the destination that I had no idea where they went for one night. Sleeping on ground was rough, as Uri said. Thomas was also not very happy by loosing a day. Uri said that we are finish with Kamlesh?? I didn't ask much on this but they revealed it later on. He does not have any knowledge about the photographers needs and neither of a foreign tourist. Asking them to drink normal water was too much for Uri.

I was shocked to see the behaviour and working modus operandi of forest guards and trackers there. It is very important for a tourist to know the local language or have interpretor or Fixer as they are called in Gir. This helps in making their trip successful. Lions are very docile animal and can be herded by a single man with the help of a stick. I have seen this happening. I was an outsider amongst our group there so our jeep was always moved away from the spot hence I never had an opportunity to photograph this drama. One evening we met two Dr brothers from Ahmedabad who were complaining about the trackers bahaviour. Some other Indian gentleman's jeep was taken off route to show him the Lion and he was asked to get down from the jeep to photograph Lion on foot and these two brothers were denied the opportunity. Their complaint was that everyone should have equal opportunities in the park. No favours to any particular tourist. I agree.

I felt very happy in myself. Minimum there is one person who knows the local language and still ignored by the local people in the jungle because they did not had proper connections there. These connections are made on the basis of how much money you can shell out of your pocket or to whom you know in the department.
I have never seen any other National Park in the country where money plays such a vital role in sightings. Many people left the park disappointed. It is a part of the game. It could have been more justified if everyone gets the same treatment/deal in the jungle. People with privileges in the jungle annoys tourist more than anything else.
I saw more people complaining about the system here than anywhere else.
The rules are very ridiculous for sharing the jeep with foreigners. I had to pay the camera charges same as foreigners. Many people dont agree with camera charges at tourist destinations. Every Camera used by visitors, big or small helps in publicity. People dont charge for showing their photo of the destinations then why camera fee is charged to them. Charging camera fee is really mean thing to do with that kind of Entry fee structure. We pay to enter our National Parks which are run on Tax Payers Money.
After my visit to this place I checked two photoagencies for Lion Photos, just to check the demand of Asiatic Lion photos. I was surprised to know that there were hardly any photos of Asiatic Lions. This is only because there is no demand of these photos in the market or destination is not popular amongst the foreign photographer. Every photographer visiting any place dont look for fixers. They visit destinations with a hope of getting some photographic opportunities through legal means as a general tourist.
After seeing the Lion herded by trackers I can not suggest this place to any of my photographer friends. Majority of them are true wildlifers who prefers to wait for opportunities in the jungle. Most of the photographs I see from Gir are very much touristic shots.( I learnt this word in 1989 while working with one of Indias top photographer. This was his comment after seeing a tigress with her three cubs sitting next to her.) Lion photography is difficult. You dont get a chance to observe the subject. People walking around jeeps distract their attention. I did not see them in relax mood. Even three female and 5 cubs sighting did not produce any extra ordinary picture.
Drivers drive their jeeps too close to follow them. Any animal would not like to have a vehicle full of shouting tourist at his bum end. I photographed this. Lion was not at all calm. He wanted to get off the road as early as possible but poor chap was again cornered by Tracker on motorbike. I think these lions have always accepted man as their master. At one time, when there were only few lions left, this must have been the way to locate them.

I did not found Sasan as a very popular tourist destination for foreigners. Food is the one problem. All the restaurant I tried were serving very oily-spicy hot food with very limited choice. I survived on Biscuits, fruits, Curd and Roti. All the Tourists do not go to stay at top end lodges.

Tourism in Bandhavgarh

2010-04-26T19:48:00.003+05:30

Since last 3 months I was visiting park almost everyday. Lots of Tiger sightings and lots of other things were seen. Other things means how the some lodges gets privileges in the park.
Some drivers are found driving off route all the time. They are driving some priviledge tourists. How they get priviledges is still a thousand dollar question?? In any case this does not gives any fame to the park and park authorities. I tell my clients in very open words. Who they are and what they are doing. This makes them more angry about our system. And as Hashim says Whole country is like that?? Corrupt.
The new rules are not helping the tourists. No one wants to miss the tiger by few meters, as it happened everyday in Rajbehra. If a Tiger lying on route A than route C people cant see it because they are not allowed to go 100 meters off the route. I discussed this matter with Park Supdtt. and he agreed with my point.
There is no control on drivers in this park and when they cheat the system guides also join them only because they see it as a fair thing to do for their clients.

cattle kills

2010-04-25T05:19:00.002+05:30

mahavats says it was lakshmi, the limpy tigress of chorbehra. She jump the fence and killed 3 cattles and injured one.
Kuttappan said the same so i beleive it was her.
B2 is seen by some other people and they said he is fine no sign of any wound.
yesterday jungle was very quite. did not sighted any tiger but that is how it goes.

Tiger

2010-04-24T05:08:00.002+05:30

So what is important today. My phone rang at 0330 in the morning. Tiwari ji Come quickly here. Rajesh and co are shouting on Siddhnarayan's roof to scare off two Tigers. They have injured a cow and killed otherone in other house.
Within minutes I was ready. Kay said You are not going alone? She joined me and within two minutes we were on the spot .
Pug Marks were clearly seen on road. Sultan came to inform that he saw pugmarks on Bijhariya road. We had to tell staff not to move in dark. Similarly other people and neighours were informed. Dont want any other case and tigers to get blamed for their death.
I had to call Ranger at 0445. Soon Elephants will be in the village.
Question is Who these are?
If I get any more news I will tell you in the evening.

Chainlink fencing

2010-04-19T12:39:00.003+05:30

This morning I saw this porcupine running alongside the chainlink fence looking for a space to come inside the park area. She was seen near Andhiyaari Jhhiriya camp. Our guide Kanchhedi and Premlal guide were at the spot. Last year I photographed a Tiger trying to come inside of the park from outside.

These fencing are coming up in almost all the National Parks and sanctuaries in M.P.

Picture of a tiger can be seen here. Please scroll down the page. It is last picture.
http://www.ecoscene.co.uk/?service=search&action=do_quick_search&language=en&mode=&q=satyendra+tiwari&qw=&page=9&grid_layout=4

My purpose here to put this photograph is to ask your opinion on this point.

If after few years some researcher finds the ill effects of these fencing on Wildlife than Will the Government fix the responsibility of the loss on concerned people?

Your opinion on this point is very important for the future of wildlife in this country.

As Shri Lav Kumar Ji Khachchar said "If the army loose some teritory it can be taken back at some later date, but one species lost , or for that matter one mix of species disturbed and it would be impossible to recreate what is lost." So keeping this view mind please comment on pros and cons of chainlink fencing around N.P. and Sanctuaries in M.P.

Your comments will prove a valuable document at later stage.

Please comment on blog itself.

Visit to Bandhavgarh Fort

2010-04-14T14:22:00.004+05:30

Visit to fort is always rewarding in one or the other manner. I tried to photograph Tomb Bats but my camera refused to work! Moody, like many other .....! Weather was not good to see vultures flying. Saw none flying at Bathaan. We saw a dead Spotted Deer near a pool on way to Badhaini view point. Our guide Vijay singh saw it on 1st of April and other guide saw it on 4th April lying there in same position.
Dead Spotted Deer is nothing for many tourists but for the people who care for the jungle is really worrying. Dead Spotted Deer was not eaten by any scavanger or predator. It means Vultures are not there and so the other preadors like tiger and leopard are also not there. What happened to all of them!
Things are not good here. Tigers are surviving on less than 4 sq km per tiger teritory. It is good for tourists who come here to see tiger but not good for tigers themselves.

B2

2010-04-11T21:22:00.002+05:30

Some guide saw B2 this morning sitting near Sita Mandap. He said B2 was limping badly. He was sitting after every few steps.
What happened to him! All we could think of is that 2 days back he and Bamera male, his own son, were together in same area. B2 may have tried to behave with him in similar manner as he behaved with Kalua. B2 may have injured in this tussle. We did not see him this afternoon. This seems to be the beginning of the end of B2 era. B2 got this teritory from Charger. In his last days Charger was almost blind due to cataract. We remember seeing him hitting the tree and slipping on rocks while walking. He was found near a village, weak and starved. Initially he was put in a makeshift enclosure at the spot later in another enclosure where he spent last 6 months of his life. So Charger never faced any challlange from any male from outside. Remember in those days park boundaries were open and tigers had free access to surrounding areas. B brothers became dominant males in Tala range at the age of 27 months. They have seen Charger fading out of the scene. Once we saw three brothers not allowing Charger to share their kill.
Only place where B2 can spent his last days in peace is to avoide Bamera Male and stay away from him. Let us see what happens!
I will keep informing you about the latest development in his life

Dont stay here get lost is the message B2 wants to convey to Kalua

2010-04-09T07:53:00.006+05:30

Last month someone showed a small clipping to Kay about B2 dominant male intimidating a young Tiger named Kalua. We also witnessed this day before yesterday. B2 was seen devouring a cow inside the park. Later on he moved towards Ghorademon. When we saw him in early afternoon his one foreleg was visible in the gorge. At about 1715 hrs a young male about thirty months old alo walk in the same gorge. He was shocked after seeing his father the dominant male of the area sitting there. He sat down instantly and freeze his movements. We heard only one Tiger growling, so probably that was B2. After few minutes B2 got up and started circling this young male. Moving towards him he snarled. Young male got up and moved backward. He was petrified. He lay down in submissive position. He was so petrified that he urinated. B2 charged on him, circling him again and again and after a roaring sound he came out of the gorge.

Young male sat down in fear, expecting new attack from his father, he kept looking on top. B2 walked for few minutes on the gorge and sat on top of the gorge.

We left them in that position. Next morning B2's pugmarks were seen miles away from the last sighting place and young male also disappeared.

This young male had very unfortunate story. Few weeks before we saw him in his mothers teritory. That day when he saw his mother coming down off the hill he started calling her like a cub. She came snarling and told her off. So poor chap is being told off by his both parents.

That is life our kids needs to learn. Once you become adult leave the shelter and make your own home. A daugter is better than a son minimum she will leave you after 25 -30 yrs but if a son becomes useless he will torture you till death.

Company provides.

2010-04-08T12:05:00.002+05:30

Last month I was assisting a photographer so I had a chance to go on Elephant for several days. Sometimes Mahavat smells liquor in day time so I asked what happened today! He replied Oh yesterday I had some clients from one lodge and I couldn't go there yesterday to receive my Free Booz Supply so i got it today. Company gives 2 bottle of Beer for day and half bottle Rum for the evening. Now we know that why certain lodge always gets favour from the employees. Certainly client must have charged by the lodge for this free booze.
3 days back a beat guard knocked at my door at around 7/30 pm. I was shocked that this person who doesn't recognise me in the jungle why he has come here today. I smelled something fishy.
His reason to come was to beg / borrow some money from me as he has to send his family to his hometown to look after his ailing parents. I gave him money only after this thought that this man must have needed this money badly otherwise he would have not come to me. But what shocked me was that why he did not asked to his collegues for this small amount of 3000/ Rs.
Strange strange people.

Bandhavgarh Tigers

2010-04-05T18:44:00.002+05:30

I was replying to Mr Peter Dickinson's comment than I thought why not I reply it on blog few more things to tell. Yes u r right but why she has to move with cubs! If she has gone out to dump her cubs then why she is taking that much Time! Why she herself is not coming back in her teritory! Her last litter of cubs stayed with her up to the age of three and half years of age. Three cubs 2 male and one female left at the age of three and half yrs of age and one male came back to his motherland after a year. He is called Bamera male now. Now he is about 5 yrs 9 months old. We have seen her cubs staying in the same teritory more than normal and diminishing the prey base.
If she is the same tigress as Chakradhara female than it will be interesting to know the reason of her leaving the teritory.
Is it because of lack of prey base!
or she left this area to get rid of her cubs!
Can someone enlighten me on this, Do they go out of their teritory to dump their cubs!

Tigers

2010-04-04T20:54:00.002+05:30

Tigers Tigers and Tigers. That is Bandhavgarh. I declared it 3 yrs back that this park started dying and that time people were laughing on me. People who dont know the situation may laugh on me now when I say that this park has turned in to a Glorified Safari Park! Yes it is a Glorified Safari Park. Tourists who visit this park uses it like a Restaurant where people go to enjoy the meal of their choice and dont care for the kitchen that how it was cooked and in what condition the kitchen is. Forest department is happy by putting the Chain Link Fencing all around the National Park. They dont consider it as a corridor blocker or teritory divider for the tiger. One of the my friend in Forest Deptt told me the equations of chainlink fencing. That equation leads towards money spending!!!!!
May I request to my readers to enlighten me on this question if they know any park that is managed in this country with scientific guidelines!!
Topic here is a Tigress with three cubs. Her cubs are about 18 months old now and she is not being seen in the Park since last 45 days. Forest department thinks she is out and she is responsible for the death of this girl last week in Kuchwahi village.
Now the question is that why this tigress has to leave the best teritory area of the park, Chakradhara meadow and fort hill, to go out of the park. One guide said that he saw her snarling on her cub of last litter Bamera Male, who has become the dominant male of the area and trying to push B2 further back in to the hills. But that day she was waiting for the cubs to join her on the kill. She did not like her presence near the kill and male slapped her. But these are daily routine incidents in Tigers life and any established female will not leave her teritory that easily. She is 14 now. What kind of prey other than cattle she is getting outside is not reported so far. She was never seen outside of the park before. Areas from where she could come in are all fenced with 8 foot high fence. I am sure that in next few years Tigers will be managed genetically in these National Parks. Tala Range in Bandhavgarh has all the Tigers from Sita And Charger blood line except a male and a female whose parentage is not confirmed. Dominant males of this park has not faced any challange from any intruder male since last 13 years so that tells the part of the story.
In this country where human population pressure has reached to the core areas of National Parks how one can have hope of their (tigers) free survival.

Late Miss Anjana Tiwari

2010-03-30T17:36:00.003+05:30

Today morning Hariom , my younger brother, brought the news that a Tiger has killed a girl in Kuchwahi village . Kuchwahi is less than 3 km from my home and Park boundary in crow flight. Me and Kay reached there in minutes after getting the news. Forest vehicle was following us so we let them pass. Bablu ktpns said that they have brought the body in the house. Place was full of visitors. Police was there and so the forest deptt.
A tiger walk through wheat field to leap over the fence, walk through the village, killed a cattle, drag it through the fence by breaking it and start eating 300 mtrs behind a house. Anjana came out of house to collect the mahua flower under a tree that is 300 mtrs from her house and 30 mtrs from where this tiger was eating her kill. Tiger saw her as an obstruction and charged on her. She got killed instantly. Tiger dragged her few meters and left her there. Her body was not eaten by Tiger.
This case has left many questions to answer.
A sad story.

Kim

2010-03-28T17:07:00.005+05:30

Kim, old friend and a famous wildlife photographer from Oklahoma, arrived on 4th March and from 5th we started our work in the jungle of Bandhavgarh. It is an old story of permission troubles. After reaching at the gate we found that our permission papers have not reached to the park gate yet. Since the 28th Feb case staff working for Tourism in the park were unable to found so I knock on the doors of Park Supdtt. at 0600 hrs in the morning. He gave me his copy that I could show at the gate to enter. Later on I learnt that I am not the new for this many other people dont get their permission papers in time but information is sent through wireless but this did not happened in our case.

Kim comes here for Tiger photography. She has enough pictures to publish a decent book on Tigers. She is coming here since 1998 and every stay is never less than three weeks.

We had some quite good sightings but they were not good for photography. Either the light was not good or some other obstruction. I was aiming her to get minimum few quality photos during this time.We spent most of our time looking for Chorbehra or Andhiyaari jhhiriya cubs. Infact apart from them there was no other tiger on which Mahavat could rely to find them regularly. Even these were not easy to find. Chorbehra cubs were rarely playful. We saw them growing in three weeks. In 23 days time we saw changes in their wooly coat. Their size changed. Although I doubt they get as much food as the other cubs on the other end of the park get.
We had few leopard sightings but none were better. Infact few sightings were better from jeep than elephant. It may be a great surprise for some people that leopard population in the park is as good as Tiger. There are minimum four different leopards between Tala gate and Chakradhara. One leopard we saw on road was very close to the park gate. Monkeys gave us the clue about his hiding spot and once his cover was blown away he decided to come in open. It was a good sighting but nothing for photo.
All in all 23 days were fun in the jungle. We had to face lots of red tape from the forest dept. lower staff. It will be interesting to know how the other people deals in these situations.
At last I would like to make some comments about the jungle.
Habitat degrading, Water holes drying, Low Prey base for carnivores, High density of Big Cats, Fence trapped the young cats to move out to look for their own home ground hence affecting the prey base. But all these things makes sighting easier and tourist happy.
Only thing we regret in these 23 days that we never saw Chakradhara female and her cubs and neither their pugmarks.

Lata. R.I.P.

2010-03-08T19:45:00.002+05:30

Lata was one of the oldest female elephant in Bandhavgarh. She sat many records here. She worked till last day of her first delivery and same she did on her last delivery. She was retired from tourism work in 2006. Since than she was kept at different Elephant camps in Bandhavgarh but always with breeding elephants. She was a very caring Aunt. Starvation is the major cause for elephants death in nature. They grow 6 sets of teeth in their life time. After the last set of teeth's they cant chew their food. Lata was surviving on boiled Rice, Daliya and Gud.
Mahavat told me that last day she ran back from Milli camp to Sukhi Patiya camp. Destroyed her temporary hut and died that night. Why she destroyed that hut? Animal world. we can't read their mind just predict that she might have decided enough is enough. You don't me to stay here where I want then why should I let this hut stay here.
I am off.
Thanks.
Bye Bye.
Mahavats refused to puncture her body for postmortem. One said to me How can I do it? She fed me for so many years. Let her go peacefully but no Govt. papers has to be completed.
I salute her. She was a very good elephant. Munmun and Elephant Lata story is only of three sentences for which Kay has to draw a picture. I will show you that picture on some other day.

Jaipur

2010-03-04T12:50:00.005+05:30

There is so much to write about the park and other things happening in Bandhavgarh but never got any time and now time is too late to write. But I will record these things here sometime in future.

We were again in Jaipur. This was my third visit to Jaipur in last three months. some people did asked me that what is attraction in Jaipur and I am telling you now there is no attraction in Jaipur. Spent four boring days in Jaipur, saw most chaotic mismanaged Elephant Festival. it was so chaotic that one of our friends wife left the place earlier than us by saying that I don't feel safe here. Peoples were running everywhere around elephants. Elephants came from Amber at 1230 hrs did not had any water to drink or a shady place to stand till sun went down. They were not allowed to spray their saliva on their body to cool down because that might have smudged the painting. People who came early and taken the seat their view was blocked by the people who came late and local management allowed them to do so happily. Kay commented that she wont go again in fact she was ready to leave even before the show started. Everyone was after a photo to destroy the photo of others. I could not see a single elephant without a person with camera standing next to it. There is nothing much for us to see in Jaipur. Albert Museum was interesting unfortunately zoo was closed on Tuesday.

We decided to visit Kheechan again. One of our guest Mrs Renate Seidi asked Kay if she can join us for kheechan. I hesitated to tell her initially that we dont look for luxury on our visits simply we cant afford and second thing is that Kheechan has nothing to offer except Demoiselle Crane.

She joined us from Jaipur. The person to whom I asked to arrange the accommodation for us booked us in such a shabby place that Kay and me couldn't sleep. Renate said she slept well. I decided that very minute that on way back we will look for accommodation ourselves.

Next morning we went to a place near Jodhpur to see the Chinkara. I had been there before but that day light was not brilliant so another visit was necessary. Kay and Renate liked the place very much and seeing Chinkara, Blue Bull and Peacock from that close quarter was a bliss.

After chinkara's we decided to visit the Endurance place to meet Philippa. She was there keeping the timing of Endurance horses.

By the time we reach Kheechan it was time to spread the food grain for Cranes. They put about thousand kilograms of food grain per day for cranes. About 7 to 8 thousand Cranes comes to feed. Kay and another German couple helped the staff in spreading the food grain. One boy said he was watching India SA match played at Gwalior. I also wanted to see that inning but missed. Later on someone told me that Sachin played 50 overs not out on 204 without a runner. Great What a record. Who will break it. Chris Gayle Sehwag are the two names who can do this but when time will tell us.

We saw Cranes at waterhole but couldn't see any at their roosting grounds. They roost in salt pan area of about 50 sq km. Difficult to be at the right spot at right time and sometimes they don't land after seeing the human beings on their landing ground.

We all spent a night in a cosy little room. We were ready before sunrise to see the birds. It is an amazing sight of seeing flocks and flocks of Cranes landing on Sand dunes. Than they just walk towards Chugga Ghar and jump or u can say little hoping flight to cross the fence of Chugga Ghar. We could count more than thousand birds at once inside the chugga ghar. Within two to three hours time every crane in the vicinity visits Chugga Ghar for feed. They rest on sand dunes after feed. By this time light becomes too harsh for photography.

We left at mid day had lunch on way and reached Jodhpur before dark. I checked Rajasthan Tourism hotel just to check their standard. Staff behaviour was as expected, lazy - careless. Two rooms were shown to us. Both were smelly with dirty shabby curtains. We stayed in Pan Haveli. Nice place to stay, very cheap for its value. Few things goes against the location that i will write on tripadvisor.com but the whole Jodhpur is that dirty for that matter.

Train journey's were as usual. Mobile phones ringing till midnight, people throwing rubbish and food leftovers under the seat and then complain about mice and cockroaches in the train, kids screaming for no symbolic reason except they are tired and parents taking no notice of them annoys fellow passengers. In our journey from Jaipur to Jodhpur one 5 yr old boy was making more noise than rest of the compartment together.

That is India! my dear.

Tigers.

2010-02-17T05:22:00.003+05:30

This is only to record that a bait was given to Lakshmi on 3rd Feb according to Guides memorandum dtd 06/02/10 to Lakshmi but later on she was seen hunting Spotted Deer in river on 14th Feb. Means physically she is all right. Guides were on strike from 11th Feb and they won on 13th Feb.

According to their press release Field Director came to listen to their grieveances on 12 Feb night and at 11.45 PM he agreed to take necesaary action on their demands.

Cattle Lifting in Tala village.

2010-02-07T18:00:00.002+05:30

Hariom gave us the news yesterday about Tiger pug marks in Gitanjali Hotel on High Street of Tala village. Quickly I was there in minutes to photograph the pug marks. After reaching there staff told me the story that how they saw her moving in the compound and all, hard to believe but they were telling everyone what has happened in the night. They told me that later this tigress killed Raju's cow. Raju lives behind the school building. This tigress came out of Gitanjali and walked towards his house through pugdundee near hospital. He keeps his cow in his Veranda. Tiger took it from there and killed it 15 ft away.
By the time I reached cow was taken away by the forest department to give it to its new owner.
This morning Ganesh gave us the news that another cow is being killed in Gitanjali. Again we were there and this time we saw all the pug marks and cow too. I think cow was killed very late in the morning because a very small portion from the rump was eaten. She didn't had much chance to eat it. We heard dogs barking at 0515-0530 from the same direction and I said to Kay that looks like Tiger was again in the village.
Which Tiger it can be!
If it is Lakshmi, tigress from Chorbehra then she has all the right to come and look for prey.
She has very poor territory. She has less than two km long 600 mtrs wide strip of forest that is fenced on one side and otherside is hill. She has two dominant females neighbouring her territory so she cant flex her muscles. Prey base is decreasing day by day in her territory due to several reasons. Her territory is being divided by fence which she crosses by leaping over on it and probably by that, hurt her one hind leg. She has little trouble in walking since last 18 months but otherwise perfect.
There is no possibility of any other tiger to visit the village because if it is so than this other Tiger should show his / her presence in the jungle.
What is going to happen!
Will she be sent to Zoo!
Why? She is not guilty of any thing.
She has the same right to find his prey as the villagers have to find the firewood in the jungle.
If ever this thought takes place in the minds of forest deptt officials easiest solution is to remove the chainlink fencing from the main road and give her freedom back for her survival.

Kheechan

2010-02-01T07:39:00.004+05:30

Kheechan is a village in Jodhpur district of Rajasthan where Demoiselle Crane comes in winter. I saw photographs of this place and since last few years it was on my wishlist . One morning Sunil and I drove to Kheechan. We had no ideas about their feeding place or anything but the moment you reach kheechan one can see the flocks flying in to one direction from all the side. We just followed them and reached to a place where more than a thousand birds were feeding in the compound. Someone from a nearby house asked us to come on his house roof for better view. What a view. I was completelty mesmerised.
Later on I saw thousands of birds landing on sand dunes and getting disturbed by people who uses these sand dunes as open toilet grounds.
Sevaram is trying to provide them a safer ground to live in Kheechan but without any monitoring help from from anyone. He is awarded for his work but as usual as it happens that awards are given to recognise the people and their work but not to support them in future .
He told me that he needs financial support to buy a vehicle to monitor these birds in the night. Presently he hires auto rickshaw to visit salt pan where these birds roost in the night.

Nagaur

2010-02-01T07:23:00.002+05:30

I am hooked to Horse Photography or in other words I am spreading my wings in Photography.
After Dundlod Endurance I decided to attend most of the cattle fairs in Rajasthan, only if my pocket allows me.
I checked Nagaur for hotels but found none on Internet so I took the help of Sunil Kapoor in Jodhpur. He asked someone else to book a hotel for me in Nagaur. I reached there on 23rd and immediately I visited the fair. Attendance of people and animals in Nagaur fair this year was poor due to the local body election taking place at the same time. I found Nagaur fair very interesting for various reasons. Rajasthan Tourism Hotel is not an alternate to stay there. They may improve but I did not found that place "perfect for a peaceful stay". Shree Aditya Hotel where I stayed is also on main highway but back side room are more peaceful than front one.

Rusty Spotted Cat

2010-02-01T07:06:00.003+05:30

Few years back Kay saw a cat sitting in our garden and she thought that this looks different than others so she checked it immediately with book and claimed that it is none other than Rusty Spotted Cat. I never saw this cat here in Bandhavgarh so I was not able to comment but she was very much sure about her sighting. This year someone photographed a cat in the park and put that photo on Internet labeling Rusty Spotted Cat. Yes it is and this sighting confirms that the cat Kay saw in our garden was also the Rusty Spotted Cat. So they are surviving here secretly. Yesterday I was in the jungle ans saw a dead cat near the road in the park. But due to the present scenario and the attitude of govt officials guide refused to check it properly. She was lying up-side down lower half portion of body was eaten but tail and upper half of the body was intact. I asked him to turn it over but he said time is gone no fun in checking these things anymore. Some naturalist from some other lodge was claiming it is a rabbit. (Good luck to the tourists with him)
So a new mammal for the Park. Rusty Spotted Cat.

Tiger Photography

2010-01-17T17:20:00.002+05:30

Last month a top notch British Wildlife Photographer asked another top notch fellow photographer about the best place to Photograph Tigers in India. His reply was Those days are gone!

I fully agree with him. Last year I read on Toft the experience of watching tigress and cubs in Ranthambhore where drivers refuse to move close to the tigress. I wish it could happen here. At one time Bandhavgarh was very good. People use to respect each others presence at the spot but now in this business competition nobody cares for others. I and my guests ( one Botanist from Natural History Museum London and two people from travel industry U.K.) decided to stay back if this tiger comes out of the forest. I thought to give him enough space to feel free on the road. She growled twice so we knew which way she is moving. I parked myself far away from the expected spot of his appearance. She appeared at the right spot. Guide and I saw her and pointed it to our guests. By the time I could realise what is happening three jeeps, waiting 50 mtrs behind me, just rushed right infront of her to give their clients a very close view of the tiger. They didn't leave any option for me except to follow them and park behind them otherwise my guests will not have even a glimpse of the tiger. I stood on y seat to take minimum one photo for the record so we can identify the Tiger.

Nothing will change untill unless the drivers are controlled by the tourists themselves but how it can happen when tourist pats driver and guide on the back for showing them a beautiful tiger from that close quarter.

Yes I agree that those days are gone.

Photoshop Technique

2010-01-13T22:33:00.002+05:30

Today when I came back home I found an email waiting for me from one of my friend complaining about my pictures. His main complaint was that my pictures are not brightly clean! After reading that I thought I must clerify my position. I do not like to play with my photos on computer. I dont sharpen them and dont do any other touching work or adding or removing of objects. I just adjust the curve and levals, thats all. I do only that much what my agency allows me to do. Sharpening the image on computer is full NO-NO for me.
There may be my other friends with similar questions in their mind so this is my answer. By the way you would like to see this image that is coming on the front cover on a book.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0521515297/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=471057153&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=0521735866&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=1P0KRYVZ8G842728D22A
Copy it and paste it to see a leaping Tiger.
Satyendra

Tiger Show

2010-01-07T11:59:00.002+05:30

This is a news for many many people in the country. Some may feel winners on this and some loosers.
Anyway, I confirm it with the guide and Drivers and they said yes it is started and today was the first Tiger show of the season in Tala range at Mirchhani area.
Satyendra

Dundlod Rajasthan

2009-12-23T23:04:00.007+05:30

After spending two days in Jaipur we moved to Dundlod. Dundlod is a small town in Jhunjhnu district about 170 km from Jaipur. Road is good not unlike other states where after 5 hours of road journey tourists look for the bed and painkiller tablet. We stayed in Dundlod Fort as a guest of Kr Raghuvendra singh ji who runs horse safaris at Dundlod. He is a pioneer in adding this adventure in tourism itinerary successfully. Today it has became one of the major tourism adventure sport in Rajasthan. I am not sure whether this is recognised as an adventure sport or not!

We were there on invitation to photograph the International Invitational 81 Km Endurance organised by Indigenous Horse Society of India with collaboration of Rajasthan Equestrian Association. This was the first Equestrian Federation of India's qualifying race at Dundlod. Two Endurance were organised one 40 Km and second 81 Km Endurance in which major International teams participated. Vansthali school Jaipur came with their Girls team. Some of them really put an impressive show during Show Jumping and Tent Pegging.

Kay and I were completely new to Indian Horses even I never photographed Horses before except few shots in Pushkar few year back so this was all very interested for us. I was not sure whether I will be able to produce any quality photograph of any sort or not because everyone tells us that Horses are not easy subject to photograph. And it is true. It is a very much time consuming job. Even the photographer has to built a rapport with horse to stand that close to him and make him use to of that "bloody" camera shutter noise. Kay loved being around horses again. Her dream comes true of riding a horse in India even if it was only for a short duration. Now she wants a horse! even more. I already see a dent in my pocket and I am sure if it happens it will repay through various means.

We reached Dundlod on 6th afternoon and met Ms Francesca Kelly and Kr Raghuvendra Singh ji Dundlod. Later Ms Francesca offered us a lift to the stable. That gave us a good opportunity to move around the stable and photograph horses on first day.

Here we met Colonel (retd) Sirpratap Singh ji, a very fine Horse Ride instructor and an authority on Indian Horses. Stable staff was practicing Tent pegging and suddenly we saw Sirpratap singh ji going for Tent Pegging. Still he is better than many others.

At the fort dinner is always served around the camp fire. Also this is the time to evaluate the day activities and plan for tomorrow.

Other person we met here is Philippa Waterfield. She says that she always feels very nervous when she meet new people. I didn't see that at all. She is a one good friendly nature person who love Horses and try to spend minimum 6 months in India every year. I enjoyed her company and hope soon she will be able to come and stay with us.

Opening ceremony was scheduled for 8th so we had another free day to move around stable.

Got some good photos of Horse rolling in sand, horse washing and clipping. See the photo of clipping, still using the good old method. Watching Sirpratap singh ji giving riding lessons to Ms Maica was a treat to watch.

Tent Pegging show on opening ceremony day was a fine example of practice and riders rapport with the horse. One of the stable boy hit three targets in tent pegging by sword. He threw his sword in air after pegging one and showed the similar action on second. Alexander practiced on bareback and so the other rider from the stable.

Phillippa and Kay helped Omprakash in washing the horses. They are washed with shampoo to keep their coat clean and shiny.

41 km Endurance started as per schedule on 10th morning. Endurance is a skill to ride the horse for that distance and keep him fit. Riders has to come back to the starting point after covering 20 km for vet check and physical check up of the horse. A horse rider can be eliminated from the race if horse looks lame or his heart beat don't come down in twenty minutes time of his arrival. Similar thing happened in final round when a rider thought he won the race but his horse was found lame and got eliminated. Abhimanyu Yadav, 19 yrs old boy, won the race. This was his first competition ever. What a record for the future. But a 10 year old boy who finished the race impressed everybody. Riding for 41 km at that age is not easy. It needs stamina and will both. At finishing point he and his horse really look exhausted.

Next day on 11th was showing. Many fine looking Stallion and Mare came for the competition.

International Endurance started on 12th morning. We reached on ground in dark. Some riders were already warming up their horses. Army team members were very confident about their success. They were telling us that they will win the Endurance. In fact their comment was that their horses, Thoroughbred, are in good nick than others and could finish the first round in 45 minutes. It did not happened but they won the Endurance to put every other team to battle for the third spot which was won by British team on Marwari Horses.

Only sad accident happened with Sh Bhuneshwar singh ji who fell of the horse and injured his shoulder muscle but he showed his courage by riding again with one arm wrapped against his chest. Unfortuntely he could not finish the third round. Some of the foreign participants commented on the course as one of the toughest course ever they rode in any Endurance but it was all the same for everyone.

During this period four postal stamps were released on Indigenous horses of India ( Kathiyawari, Manipuri, Zanskari and Manipuri)

Price distribution ceremony and Horse Dancing competition was held on 13th. Still photography can not do full justice with dancing horses. One has to see it in reality to see the relationship between horse and man. Hats off to both of them.

We are very thankful to Sh Arun Deo Sengar for providing us a chance to witness this event and Kr Raghuvendra Singh ji Dundlod and Ms Francesca Kelly for their hospitality, encouragement and support.

Photographs of this Endurance can be seen and prints can be ordered at www.flickr.com/photos/satyendraphotography

Jaipur

2009-12-23T22:14:00.003+05:30

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I could not photograph any of the monuments on my last visit to the pink city. Can you believe I missed the Amber fort and Wind Palace before so this time I had to cover these all. Intercity express from Agra reached Jaipur about an hour late. It was almost midnight when we check-in in the hotel. In the city like Agra Jaipur Delhi and Varanasi one must be aware of checking few facts with the hotel such as their check out time and breakfast time etc. We barely finished our breakfast at ten and the moment we enter the room the phone rang informing us that their check out time is 11 AM and we must leave the room by 11 AM sharp. This was a surprise.
We did it.
We moved to a guest house called Ashirvad. Neat and clean room but food costlier than any medium budget restaurant. Best time to photograph Wind Palace is early morning in winter when hardly anybody is moving on the road. I got my picture at 0645 AM. Amber Fort gets busy in the morning. when we reached there the elephants were still arriving from stable. Tourists were waiting for their turn to board the elephant for fort ride. We decided to walk. It hardly takes 15 minutes to reach fort. Some good photography on way.
Photos will speak better than my writing about Amber Fort so look for them at www.flickr.com/photos/satyendraphotography
Hawkers are the most annoying elements for tourists at Amber Fort. How can any tourist would like to buy anything while sitting on elephant! He wants to enjoy the ride and see fort from different angle but these hawkers never let them enjoy.
And there is no-one to control them.

Agra Gunjan's Marriage

2009-12-23T12:14:00.003+05:30

We were away for almost 16 days visiting Agra, Firozabad, Jaipur and Dundlod. Main reason to visit Agra was our neice Gunjan's Marriage. First we thought to stay in Agra for few days and photograph those unseen neglected buildings in Agra but plan changed and we decided to visit Jaipur instead.

After a long time we met some of our relatives in Gunjan's marriage. Ofcourse seeing Ravi after more than two years was fun and so the Agam, to whom we missed when he came here on Holi.

Next day after marriage we decided to visit Firozabad, a glass city near Agra. Kay wanted to see that place again. Firozabad is a crowded town. By the time we reached there every working person in the town was on his duty. Vegetable and fruit vendors were every where on road side and people ferrying bangles on handcart and bicycle choked the road. It is a town to be seen and experienced. For us it may be nothing but the person who knows Glass and Glass world compares it with Venice. Although only bangles are manufactured there but still the quantity and skill with premitive techniques makes it an excellent town in Glass World. My wife Kay use to teach Glass in an university in UK and was rated amongst the top glass artists in the world in her field. She was narrating me each and every technique of glass making that we saw there. Although because of a White skin person with me and secondly a camera in my hand did put lots of doubt in peoples mind so they never allowed us to see the kiln or real glass bangle making in the factory. Sometime I have to try this through an official channel.

I doubt people who buy the bangles or who use them with great pride only because of kind of money they paid to buy them ever think about the hardship being put behind making these bangles so special. I was told that 15 to 20 % bangles never reaches to packaging staff. That is the wastage in this industry at initial stage. It is very costly to use the polished bangles again to use as a glass.

When I was walking in those narrow crowded lanes of Firozabad my phone rang and I was bombarded with the demands of Kangan and bangles. I was getting the instructions about Size and colour and design o bangles and kangan and at the last even how many packets are to bought for each person was told. So last hour we spent in Firozabad looking for Bangles and Kangan for my younger sisters. We carried them for next two weeks with us and still lying here. Hopefully I made a good buy there.

Delebrately we did not buy anything for childrens only them to learn that they dont get gifts every time.

Tiger conservation

2009-11-26T11:53:00.002+05:30

Is a big question and no one wants to answer this for sure. My first encounter with wildlife tourism / conservation happened in Kanha in wayback 1978-79. There I met many wildlifers working for M.P. Forest and became good friends till today. Those were the days where we saw dedicated workers. They all worked for the department and for the conservation. Many of them spent their entire service period in one National Park. They paid the cost of this through the education of their childrens. Some of them never got proper education.
Here I want to talk about the dedication and facilities and about some people to whom I know from those days.
Two name I remember from Kisli are Late Budhai Lal Gop and Basta Ram Nagpure. Budhai lal was a forestguard in kisli. I never saw him wearing shoes. He use to say they reduce his speed in the jungle. Budhai lal use to walk minimum 8-10 km per day. He was one of the finest Forest Guard of Kanha. He knew each and every knook and croney of his beat. He maintained a diary that will even mention the number of deers and and other animals he saw on particular spot.
Rangers always respect him for his work( Chandran andK.P.Tiwari).
Those were the days when Kanha had only three jeeps, one with Director, One with DD and one old jeep with Park Supdtt. Rangers had motorcycles and rest of the staff either on bicycle or on foot. Each and every area of the park was monitored almost on daily basis. Mr H.S Panwar was the Director who use to spent half of the days in Kanha. Many times I saw him coming to Kanha in the evening and leaving for the office in the morning. That was dedication.
Now things have changed. There are many more vehicles with the forest department then what they ever dreamt. N.G.Os compete in this business too. More you donate more you get the favors!
Recently there was a news in Hitvada about the vehicles donated to Bandhavgarh National Park. Second news was about the contract signed by the M.P.Forest regarding making Field Directors responsible for Tiger Conservation.
I wonder if central Govt or Stae Govt will ever do any assesment of Park Authorities working??

Future of The Tiger

2009-11-19T14:43:00.002+05:30

After seeing the Tiger situation in and around the National Parks of M.P. especially Kanha and Bandhavgarh I need to put some questions for the readers to get some answers.

Do we think that Tigers will win the land-battle from human being!

This question is based on this data.

India's population is somewhere around 120 Crore out of which 70% population lives in rural areas so that comes to 84 crore people. I will say that thirty percent of these use some other firefuel then the firewood. So 70 percent uses the firewood as fuel to cook their meals means 58.8 Crore people uses firewood as fuel that comes straight from the jungle through different sources.

Do we have any solution to stop this in next five years! Or can we provide them some other alternate of firewood in next five years.

Brick kilns in villages is the other thing that s responsible of destruction of forest in major way.

If a villager has to think about the tree he has to think first about its uses, his own needs and his survival. He is totally dependent on the trees for all his domestic needs.

Tourism has grown considerably in last thirty years and so the demand of timber and firewood in tourism industry. Small dhabas uses more firewood to keep the fire burning than actual cooking. Hotels uses more firewood to create an atmosphere with campfire in the evening.

Can we stop this!

So there are many small little things that are destroying the habitat on a faster rate, I wont say alarming because who listens to this alarm. So a villager will not think about the survival of any other animal when he needs to cut a tree for his own survival!

So just think about the growing population of human being in this country, use of the forest by humanbeing for their survival and the animals chance of survival under these circumstances.

One of my best friend who use to shout a lot about conservation ultimately changed his opinion and told me: Kahe ko nahak sher ki chintaa karte ho. jo bachega so bachega varna koi bachaa nahi saktaa. Sher ki jameen ko to Aadmi khaa jaayegaa. ( Why worry about the tigers survival, No one can save them. His habitat will be encroached by man).

Bandhavgarh Park

2009-11-12T21:41:00.002+05:30

I dont want to discourage people from coming here but I want to tell them the right story about the park before they make any decision. We visited the park yesterday for first time since 16th of October. Only reason is that it has became very costly and we cant afford it if we dont have a business. I cant afford to spend Rs 2000/ per day to visit the park. That too when we dont have to hire the vehicle. This is just the Petrol and entry fee (Indian) cost.
Now Bandhavgarh has the route system more or less like Ranthambhore. Routes are 50-60 km long. It is difficult to cover them in 3.5 to 4 hrs time. One dont get any time to stop anywhere. If someone gets any clue and it is on your route then driver has to rush to the spot to gain some extra time to wait. There is no Tiger show in Tala but where it is allowed in other ranges is not happening very frequently there either. So many Indian Tourists are disappointed. Soon they will learn. There are many roads in between which are not allowed for the tourism. I thnk this leaves lots of chances for possibilities. Tourism should be used in positive manner for wildlife conservation.

Bamera Tigress

2009-11-12T21:24:00.002+05:30

Three years back three cubs age three yrs left their motherland, Chakradhara meadow and shifted to Bamera Dam. A year later one of the male cub was seen in Jamunia. Now he is known as new male or male from Bamera. His other male and female siblings were also moved to the same area. We alyas thought that the female in Bamera is his sister and he sire the litter.
Because we never got a chance to see this female so her identity was never established. We presumed that she is the daughter of Chakradhara female, Pyari. when a tigress was found dead near Pataur in August 09 and I got a chance to photograph her then we matched those photos with her old photos but they didn't match. I thought what is this happening! Is she a different Tiger!
Yes she was. Bamera female was the female sibling of L1, Swampy. Lakshmi had two cubs in her first litter. They both ate a woman at the age of 10-11 months. Later on male cub was seen sitting with the dead body of a man so he was sent to Bhopal Van Vihar. She also killed a person but lucky she never got caught for that. I tried hard to get her photo from other people who saw her at Bamera but couldn't find one. But I am sure that Tigress found dead at Pataur was female cub from Chorbehra and not from Chakradhara.

Some News / discussion on Tigers Future

2009-10-22T12:12:00.002+05:30

One of our friend send us this aricle. I thought other people may also like to read this so here it is.
Herding big cats – Farmed Tiger economics Jan McGirk.
Independent newspaper October 20, 2009 London ---
Tiger farming advocates say that legally selling body parts of the big cat could thwart the poachers. But a new report puts these claims to the test and finds dangerous flaws in the economic arguments. Jan McGirk reports. Poaching a wild tiger costs around US$20, compared to $4,000 to raise a cub to maturity. Farming tigers in order to save them may turn out to be the equivalent of herding cats: an impossible undertaking with too many variables for sustained success. Yet this practice, which converts solitary predators into livestock for Chinese consumers, has been hailed as a pragmatic strategy for bringing the endangered tiger (panthera tigris) back from the brink of extinction. Wild tigers are increasingly scarce, and their population has declined sharply from an estimated 100,000 in 1900 to under 3,000 today. At the Global Tiger Conservation Strategy Workshop in Nepal, scheduled for 26 to 30 October, 2009, the Environmental Investigation Agency (EIA) will present a new report which challenges some of the supply-side economics arguments put forth by tiger farm proponents. Advocates of tiger farming, such as economist Barun Mitra, of New Delhi’s Liberty Institute, have argued for years that plentiful stocks of tiger parts for sale in a free market would thwart poachers and crossborder profiteering. They maintain that it is a counter-intuitive way to safeguard the dwindling number of wild tigers that have evaded dynamite, snares and poison to survive in the swamps and forests of Asia and Siberia. Two subspecies, the Caspian and Balinese tigers, already have been wiped out. Some Chinese officials have actively promoted tiger farms since the 1980s, when trade in body parts for traditional medicine was allowed, and Beijing now seems unwilling to phase them out, despite calls to do so by the World Bank and the United Nations? Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). Irregularities and inbreeding at several commercial tiger farms in Vietnam and Thailand tourist attractions where tiger cubs are bred intensively and routinely suckled on sows have added to the controversy over the risks of further commodifying the tiger. Bones reportedly sell for US$800 to $1,200 per kilogram on the retail black market. An adult tiger can supply five to 10 kilograms of dried bone, much more easily smuggled than its distinctive skin. One Pacific Rim economist who has analysed the tiger trade told china dialogue that some of the bio-economical models put forth to support tiger farming are not only flawed scientifically, but are rigged to yield the desired results. He added, Tiger bone is a classic high-value, low-volume product and poaching it will always be cheaper than years of feeding a growing carnivore. The cited statistics vary, but poaching a wild tiger costs around US$20, compared to $4,000 to raise a cub to maturity. In either case, he pointed out, potential profits are absolutely massive, especially as new commodities are created and marketed. Take tiger bone wine. It can be diluted almost infinitely. When the Chinese State Forestry Administration, which oversees the country’s wildlife, quietly approved domestic trade in lawfully-sourced tiger and leopard skins and their products back in December 2007, conservationists grew alarmed. The wildlife trade monitoring network, TRAFFIC, recently warned that such vague wording on an official document would be pounced upon as a loophole by Chinese tiger farmers. Xu Hongfa, the director of the Shanghai Wildlife Forensic Laboratory who also coordinates TRAFFIC’s China programmes, told the London Times: I think these words could be used as a cover by tiger farmers to make tiger bone wine and they would try to argue that it doesn’t just refer to skins. Tiger bones steeped in vats of rice wine for up to nine years yield a potent pep tonic, considered a rare and prestigious gift amongst the Chinese elite. It’s viewed as a delicacy comparable to shark fin soup. Lavish banquet toasts are made with this black market brew, which can be obtained inside China, although penalties for selling it are severe. Customers reportedly pay up to US$180 per half litre. Meanwhile, farmers from Guilin to Heilongjiang provinces have stockpiled the frozen carcasses of captive tigers, either killed in fights or put down when they grew too large to control, and are eager to recoup their investment. Compared with the 10,000 captive tigers living in zoos or private facilities in the US, and at least 5,000 mild tigers bred at a dozen Chinese farms, the 40 or so wild tigers remaining inside China are vastly outnumbered and likely to vanish if the demand for tiger products is stimulated. Fewer than 3,000 breeding adult tigers are left in the wild anywhere in the world, and their present habitat is only 7% of the former range, which used to extend from south India to the Russian Far East and from Sumatra to northern Myanmar (Burma). The big cats are most plentiful in India, where this year’s tiger census already is underway. India has directly challenged Chinese authorities over the ramifications of easing any restrictions on tiger trade, because the countries signed a bilateral protocol on tigers back in 1995. Keshav Varma, leader of the World Bank’s Global Tiger Initiative, announced at the 58th meeting of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species Standing Committee (CITES): Having carefully weighed the economics argument, we urge the CITES community to uphold the ban on wild tiger products and for all countries to continue to ban the domestic trade of wild tigers." Western press accounts of tiger penis aphrodisiacs or tiger brain balm to cure acne annoy practitioners of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). Most spurn such folk potions, which are based on superstition, not medical theory. Even though some 100 million Chinese sufferers of arthritis might be prescribed tiger bone derivatives to ease joint inflammation if it were legal, herbal substitutions now are standard, and medical textbooks have been purged of venerable tiger-based remedies. I can say for sure that no one in the TCM community wants to reopen the tiger trade, said Lixin Huang, president of the American American College of Traditional Chinese Medicine in San Francisco. There is zero demand. This tiger farming proposal is a way to make money, not to treat the sick. It confuses the public. Any use will create a threat to wild tigers. How do we monitor it to control poaching, selling and production? Before Chinese farmers harvest their caged tigers striped pelts or grind their bones for traditional medicines which have been outlawed for the past 16 years, a rethink might be in order. Alasdair Cameron, of the EIA, contends that unleashing free market folly and legalising the trade in parts from captive bred tigers will have disastrous consequences for the wild tiger. He argues that a parallel trade in premium wild tiger products is bound to emerge once farmed tiger items hit the market, and that there is little incentive for tiger breeders to report inventory discrepancies, to help screen out wild tiger products or enforce the ban against their use. In fact, criminals will be tempted to process any contraband wild tiger parts through newly lawful channels. The EIA review highlights flawed assumptions in some of the recent economic studies, noting a poor understanding of tiger biology and clandestine smuggling networks, as well as oversimplified supply and demand models. Fuzzy mathematical models that suggest tiger farming is a viable way to promote conservation have increasingly come under fire. Framing fearful symmetry in an equation is no doddle. Economist G Cornelis van Kooten, of the University of Victoria in British Columbia, admits that he devised formulas, in spite of a paucity of data and that factoring in a stigma effect was an afterthought, and ?no empirical evidence for it exists. Currently he’s refining his paper. Markets where corruption is rife are tough to figure out he said. Ethically I am opposed to tiger farms, just as I am to large-scale pork production. But if society permits the latter, how can you castigate the Chinese and stop tiger farming. Allowing trade might not be a disaster. Habitat destruction and lost prey is the real threat to tigers. The EIA report urges a cautious approach to speculative economic models and a commitment to reduce demand for tiger parts rather than boost a trade that has been in decline since 1993. It calls for tiger farms that intensively breed big cats to consolidate, declare and destroy all tiger parts , in accordance with past decisions taken by CITES. And, while several thousand wild tigers still stalk the night forests, the EIA recommends that wildlife activists draw attention to their successes and continue to raise awareness of the tigers’ plight.
Jan McGirk is a former correspondent for the Independent, who has reported on environmental issues and disasters in Asia, Latin America, and the Middle East..
So this is what world thinks about the Tigers future.

Park Rules

2009-10-21T13:49:00.003+05:30

So it is all back to square except route system on both times of the day.
I talk to the Ranger and he says that now everything is like last year, all sorted.
I hope that makes things better for tourism, tourist and Tourism Industry.

Park Rules

2009-10-21T07:12:00.002+05:30

Still few things are not clear.
Entry fee is as before.
Even after paying the entry fee for vehicle they still wants every vehicle to pay Rs 1000/ for an year registration with forest department. This simply extortion but due to lack of courage local people dont come forward to oppose this legally.
First they said that only taxi permit vehicle will be allowed then they allow all till further order so position is not clear on this issue.
another controversial order is that only M.P. registration vehicle will be allowed to enter the park. On this I will say what is happening. Are we Talibaning the Parks that you can go and you cant go because you are not from here. Are we going to see this in future that visitors from outside of the state will be treated foreigner and will charged more.
Forest department should stick with entry fee and pollution control certificate of the vehicle.
So far No Tiger Show in Tala range. And neither in any other range either.
I will post more on this issue once we get more clear picture.

New Park Rules in Bandhavgarh

2009-10-09T11:08:00.002+05:30

A meeting was called by Park Authorities of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve on 7th October where according to the The Hitvada dt 9th October 2009 Jabalpur
" This meeting was attended by hotel owner, resort owner,guides, tour operators, park officials. From oct 17, the Park would be opened for tourists.
Now in Tala zone, Tiger Show would not be done on elephant safaris. It may be recalled that in meetng of park directors held at Ranthambhore in month of August. Park Director R.K.Patil has proposed of ending tiger show in the park so as to maintain distance between human and tiger. This proposal was approved and hence now from this tourist season tiger show would not be done in Tala region of Bandhavgarh National Park.
Due to the much density of Tigers in the region, Tourists can have ample opportunity to see tigers.
Similarly to last years vehicle owners visiting the National park will be able to seek registration by paying Rs 1000.
Further more, it was made mandatory for the owners to ensure that their vehicls are coloured in green with all vehicles to have seat as designed by the vehicle manufacturer company.
For ABCD zone of the park for which entry is from tala gate. only 45 vehicles would be permitted entry in a single day. For EGFH zone for which the entry is from Gohni gate, 75 vehicles would be given entry in a single day. Vehicle operators can charge Rs 1000. per tourist from entry from Tala and Gohni gate. If any tourist wish to visit Bandhavgarh fort then from Tala to bandhavgarh fort is rs 2000/ per tourist and from Gohni gate to bandhavgarh fort Rs 2500/ per tourist will be accountable.
If any tourist desires to visit only Bandhavgarh fort then from Tala and Gohni gate Rs 2500/ per tourist would be charged. The park would remain open for four hours in morning and three hours in evening before sunset."
This is what I read today in Hitavada MPLINE page A and D.
I was not informed about this meeting by the authorities so I miss the chance to attend it to get the first hand information.
I think this is the duty of each and every Hotel Operator to pass on this information to their agents/ Travel Agents and ultimately this information should be given to the consumer (Tourist). If there is no Tiger Show then many tourists may feel disappointed or they may not wants to come here altogether. Elephant ride and seeing the Tiger is main object of many visitors who comes here. I will request TOFT India to circulate this news to all travel agents in India, Europe and USA and try to send this information to tourists so they know what to expect.
In my opinion few points needs some clarification as charges can not be per person. Till last year it was per jeep. Have they changed the rules??
wait and see this blog if I could find out more or better information than this.
Satyendra

Life of a Butterfly

2009-09-28T17:09:00.002+05:30

Beautiful butterfly may not have a beautiful life. We witnessed it this morning. Cockscomb we planted in June turnout to be wild Silver Spiked Cockscomb. We dont want these wild plants in the front garden so we decided to remove them. I removed few and suddenly Kay saw a butterfly roosting under the leaves. Kay picks the plant and I ran for the camera. Few photos and suddenly she opened the wing and flew off. We saw her flying away and laughed that we missed her photographing open wing. She hardly flew about 15ft away from us and a black object swipes on her and butterfly gone mising. That was our resident Black Drongo from the Garden. We wonder how many of the butterflies everyday gets eaten by the birds in our garden. Black Drongo, Small Green Bee Eater,Long Tailed Shrike, Red Vented Bulbul and Magpie Robin takes the adult butterflies and Common Iora, Tailor Bird, Tawny Bellied Babbler and Red Vented Bulbuls regularly look for caterpillars in the garden.Less than ten percent caterpillars reaches to pupa stage of their life.

Today first time in all these many years, since 1998, we saw a Cobra on our land. Kalicharan saw him near the garrage. He says he saw him with his hood wide open. We all saw him disappearing in the grass and cats chasing him.

Majority of snakes get killed by villagers, whether they are poisonous or non poisonous. For them snake is snake.

Visit to Kerala

2009-09-23T19:12:00.002+05:30

I will write sometime about my this non-photographic trip to Kerala. I was highly disappointed with pesticides filled environment at Munnar. I am saying this only because in my one week tour of Kerala I couldnot photograph a single butterfly.
How are Tigers here in Bandhavgarh and in India is the same story. While driving from Umaria to Tala after seeing the road condition of last ten km towards Tala Kay said who would like to come here if they know the road condition? I thought there are many more things what people should know before going to any Tiger area for Tiger viewing.
As a villager living around Tiger Reserve I had to ask myself, Why we are not getting Roads repaired by the government? Why forest department object on road raipres around Tiger Reserve??
Do they think that people living around the Tiger Project areas are happy with this attitute of the Forest Department?
I know and I will say NO they are not happy and they dont want to live second grade citizen in their own country.
I know what happened in Karera. Villagers changed their crop pattern to get rid of the Bustard successfully.
I see similar things happening around Natonal Parks.
Forest Department itself is helping in destruction of Tigers in long run.
By putting Chainlink fencing most of the corridores are blocked. Many Tigers lost a major part of their teritorry and prey base.
By chainlink fencing tigers are confined to a very small area where in winter they prey more on fawn than adult animals. This affects prey base numbers badly.
In this cash crunch and high cost of living affecting villagers too. They see others minting money in the name of Tigers. One villager told me that no money can replace the milk i was suppose to get from my cow that got killed by a Tiger. I can understand his feelings. Monkeys looks very nice in the jungle, very good photographic subject, but in Mango season I dont want them in my Garden. Villagers have worst feeling than this about a Cattle Lifter.
So what chance we have to save the Tiger??
Govt or Forest Department putting more and more restrictions on Tourism. this means if we dont get a chance to see him how you expect us to be his wellwisher??
So tourist goes against the Tiger?
If villagers cant have free access to the jungle for their needs of Firewood, fodder and timber than they goes against the Tiger, openly or secretly??
If villagers start thinking that we are deprived of our rights only because of animals, govt treats us lower than animals, animals are on priority of government then I will say only a miracle can save the Tiger out of National Parks in this country.
I think in next few years time Tiger tourism will die. It will become a Glorified Safari Park safari in Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Ranthambhore and Panna.
A male Tiger is about to go from here to Panna to give company to those two lonely females.

Cubs of P12

2009-09-11T06:44:00.003+05:30

People are asking about cubs of P12. The information what i could gather is that they are safe and eating well in an anclosure made for Gaur. Live baby goat are supplied to them which they are killing happily.
I will post more news on this.
Today I am leaving for Kerala. Kay wants me to go while I am in mood to cancel my trip. Kay is not well she got cold and I am worried and hope this is not some sort of H1N1 flu. She has just came back from UK last week on 3rd sept.

Delhi and Bharatpur

2009-09-10T21:53:00.002+05:30

Best thing about this train journey to Delhi was that I was sitting with some very sober army people. First time I was travelling with Non Alcohalic army people. What a bliss.
I got struck in traffic jam on way to airport. Kays flight arrived 40 minutes before to its schedule arrival time. By the time I reached to the airport she was already out and waiting for me in parking area.
Very unproductive Day in Delhi. I saw an advertisement of hedge trimmer so we looked for that shop. Beleive me, never beleive what a Delhi shopkeeper claims on internet. He was sitting in a tiny dark storeroom trying to convince us to buy petrol version of hedge trimmer.
People are proud of this country which does not produce a small item like Electric Hedge cutter or Electric Lawn Mower.
We reached Bharatpur by 2030. Hospitality at Spoonbill are not comparable to any other hotel. When we go out we dont look for luxury accomodation. We prefer to stay at a place which is run by a local person and who employs locals. Spoonbill fits perfectly in our logic and budget theme.
Park is very very dry for birds. This is a first chance for us to see this park in such a state when not even a single nest of Openbill storks is seen.
We were happy looking for butterflies and got some nice photos.
Park shop is now even selling our Buttrfly Brochure.
Infact a brochure with less butterflies can do the job for bharatpur.
Rickshaw pullars in Bharatpur were literally begging for the business.
We came back home to see a good solid rain for two days. Soon I will be off to Kerala for a week to see Nilgiri Tahr at Munnar. So more later when i come back.

Grass Yellows.

2009-08-26T19:59:00.002+05:30

Very good time for grass yellows, Common and Spotless are breeding in the garden. I protected a plant with 20 caterpillars on it and planted it in a pot. In next few days I have to add few more plants to provide them adequate food supply. They eat and eat, within a week they started turning in to a chrysalis. For some unknown reason some of the chrysalises gone black in first few days but later on they seems to be normal.

Most of the butterflies emerged early in the morning. I saw more than 30 chrysalis hanging on different branches in the garden. I have photographed emergence previously so I was not interested in photographing them again. Just wanted a good record shot.

I photographed a Common Grass Yellow in the morning and left it hanging on the branch. By the time I come back from kitchen with my tea what I see is that butterfly with wet wings is already mating. Some opportunist found a good opportunity.

What is the main purpose of their life. Pollination and reproduction. But sometime reproduction activity starts first. Butterflies are very good indicators of the health of an ecosystem. We see their population growing year by year in our garden.

Good rain this morning.

2009-08-21T07:43:00.003+05:30

None of the staff turned up yesterday. This makes me feel that whether we should rely on them or not. In all these many years i have over paid all my staff even to those who left the job. It was a very boring day. Nothing worked. One of the labour got fever in the afternoon so mason didn't work in the afternoon. Other people who were suppose to finish the job of tiling the bathroom last week has not shown their face yet.

This all makes me sick. I don't like this place / village to live any more. For a very poor quality work with lots of frustration we pay them the same amount as the skilled labour charge in city, this has started affecting my life.

I don't want to tell you more and more that how foolish I was to choose this place for living. It looks fantastic to the visitor that how calm and quit place we have to live but no one knows that living cost over here is as much as living in any city like Bhopal or Jabalpur.

I warn everyone who wants to shift to the country side for peaceful quite life that they should rely on yourself only than you will have a happy life in villages.

I finished the arch and mounting the clamp on wall for creepers to run. It is frustrating when you see that people just don't have any confidence in you than you think that why bother doing all this if they has to raise the question without seeing it.
Couldn't sleep last night. Again I brought a cup of tea for myself at 2 am and spend the night playing with TV remote chasing decent channel. I saw sunrise from the comp. table playing free cell.
At about four AM it started raining and within an hour i could feel that pool is full. Ganesh gave the news with a cup of tea at 0610 that pool is full up till mango. I photographed it again. water was above 1.5 feet over the pool level. Kaans ( sacred munja) started flowering means if we beleive in traditional season signs then the monsoon is over. Now the water table on the land is back to its normal stage.

Sisy is missing since yesterday and the boy is missing since Mini gave birth to her two kittens on 17th. Mrs and her two kittens are still on the land. In the night our garden is takenover by jackals. A pair seen resting in the grass roam on the land. Most probably they have killed our 5 cats in last one and half month. Palm civet leaves their sign under the Papaya and Cheeku tree. They have finished all the fruits.

P12 - NO MORE

2009-08-20T21:03:00.002+05:30

This was the code by which she was mentioned in Kay's family tree of Tigers of Bandhavgarh. She was born in monsoon of 2004. Her parents Pyari and B2 still dominate their teritorry. P12 left Tala range with her two other male siblings in Dec 2007 and formed their teritory in Panpatha range. She was seen mainly around Bamera dam. When they moved to Panpatha two males did not found any resistance from any other dominant male to form their teritory and in a similar manner P12 never found any other dominant male to mate so she produced her first litter with the help of her own brother P10. Her first litter was born sometime in october 2008.
She was found dead on 18th August late Afternoon. Her three cubs are not seen with her so there future is still uncertain.
Another news published in UK says India has fewer than 1000 Tigers left. Cant say about it but one more is down for sure.